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Alright so here’s what I got. Reassembled it with new anti freeze mixed 70/30 or a little heavier for the cold wisconsin winters. Last year hit -46 where I keep it. Ran around and temp gauge said 200F. Got out my laser. Thermostat housing on both sides read 180. Top of rad was 145. Bottom of...

Haha. Aren’t even where it is yet

Thanks. I’ll be putting the T stat in tomorrow night and hopefully be all good

Thanks for the information. I will shove the Stat back in, just to verify which way does it go in? I think it goes back in with the shallow side facing the front of the rig and the deep side in the block well intake manifold. IS that correct?

radiator is at the shop, the guy pointed out a few white lines on the outside and said it might need more repair, they think a full recore will cost 3K ouch. Hopefully It boils out fine and needs nothing else, I am in a time crunch to get it back in the truck Saturday so pick it up from the shop...

Alright looks like I’m pulling it in a few weeks when I get back to it and bringing it to a shop

The 160 is without a Tstat. With it I hit 200 and climb. I am gun shy to go much over 200 as I really don’t want to do another head gasket. I put a hose in the top and it runs out the bottom but does fill all the way back up to the top. The bottom flows well but might have some Plugged tubes...

I have been reading the threads in here about overheating but here's my problem. My deuce was overheating and blew the head gasket, I redid the gaskets but it still was overheating, first I flushed the radiator which did not fix the problem a short drive on a 60 degree day would get the engine...

shop called back, said the head is warped .002 so i figured they should deck them they figured they could take off .004 total to get it there. The valves have a very light leak in them and one small crack, they are going to pin and repair the crack they figured 300 to do the valve job. It ran...

I dropped the heads off at the shop yesterday, The gaskets I thought were old style but didnt get a picture of them once I got the heads off and had to run right away so maybe they were new style. Best practice at least getting the heads checked then decked if need as flatter is better. not sure...

Where did you get the new heads? The shop is checking for warp I know that thy are also pressure testing the heads and checking for cracks. Should be fine there with low hours. I figure if they need to be decked then they should be if not the shop will Check them and see if they are good and not...

I did not check warp myself. I got it with a blown head gasket as it sprays coolant out right where the head meets he block. I am guessing it was run hot before I got it due to the failure.

Thanks, do you know how much you had decked off?

I dropped my heads off at the shop today and they couldn’t find the valve recession numbers. I brought the heads in to get decked while I have them off for a head gasket change. Does anyone know the number so I can give it to them? If not they are going to measure it deck the head then grind...

hopefully I can rosco if the truck gets stuck I have a crawler that I am very confident in being able to pull the truck out.

Thanks. Is it just the diffs I should worry about or do I need to inspect knuckles or boots any where? I have a cj2a and would tell anyone doing the same to Check the kingpins and bendix joints in the steering as well as the diffs.

Hi guys newer to my M35a2. I want to use it to get some fire wood in this spring and fall. I have to drive up a hill and before that I need to go through a mud hole. I do have the TM’s and plan on checking my axles fluids. After a few days of going through the mud hole to get wood what should I...

Thanks guys I saw in the supply list a 9" jack however When I measured my tires 9" wont fit if the front tire is flat.

Sorry to bring up an old thread but I am also looking for a jack what height of jack does one need to change the tires if they are flat?

perfect thanks everyone.