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Loads and Overloads are sensed by the current transformer (CT). The CTs output current is sent to the burden resistors on the back wall. The burden resistors develop a voltage across them proportional the the load. The voltages across the burden resistors is monitored by the Overload relay...

I just wanted to be sure he didn't swap the back half. @kevin66 1) What do you have your Phase/Voltage reconnect switch set to? 2) How do your have your loads connected to the lugs? How much load and across which lugs?

When you say "electrical panel" do you mean the entire cube containing the gauges, VR, relays, K1 contactor, current transformer, etc? If you swapped included the current transformer (CT) then you'll get those "overload" faults. The number of turns of wire thru the CT's is different for an 802...

When you say "electrical panel" do you mean the entire cube containing the gauges, VR, relays, K1 contactor, current transformer, etc?

Screws with wires on them

I corrected my previous post. If all is working properly you should have 24 volts at K16 terminal 6 with the set NOT running and S1 in START assuming there are no fault lights illuminated. If there are NO fault lights AND you move S1 from OFF to PRIME/Run and back you should see K16 move. If it...

If all is working properly you should have 24 volts at K16 terminal 6 with the set NOT running and S1 in START assuming there are no fault lights illuminated. If there are NO fault lights AND you move S1 from OFF to PRIME/Run and back you should see K16 move. If it doesn't then S14 is the...

The only DC voltage regulation in the set is the alternators charging regulator. To check the battery voltage it's best to measure at the Slave Port. It's connected directly to the batteries. DC voltage behind the control panel will be about 1 volt less than the battery voltage mostly due to...

No Dropbox. I do use Google drive. The files aren't that large. 125 KB 386 KB 2.9 MB I just emailed them to you.

Check fuse FU1 behind the gauge panel. It's the fuse on the output of the alternator. It might be popped or missing.

The +24 circuit from the batteries to the front panel and control cube go thru diode CR1. Just CR1 will cause a 0.7 volt drop. The additional 0.3 or so would be normal for wiring and switch contact resistance.

The pages I mentioned yesterday... If anyone wants the two PDF files with the info below feel free to shoot me a PM with your email address. - Kurt I can also send a Excel spreadsheet of the wiring for the 802A/803A. It lists component to component wiring and wire number to component. It...

The base schematic is DieselAddicts creation. I marked up a copy of that with the wire numbers and terminals of the individual components. I'll try and remember to post the whole sheet tomorrow as well as copies of the individual components with helpfull info tomorrow.

Low Oil Pressure light should NOT come on with S1 in PRIME/RUN before attempting to start it. With that light ON the set will not turn over from S1. Cranking is inhibited due to the Fault Monitor closing relay K12 which open the K12 contacts in the diagram above. Here is the path for 24 volts...

Here is a diagram that ought to speed finding out why K2 isn't operating from S1. The blue box's indicate the base wire number for each wire. The red numbers in the yellow box's indicate the terminal on each component that the wire is connected to. Not shown is actual path from S7-2 to K2-X1...

Open the gauge panel and closely watch relay K16 and move S1 from OFF to PRIME/RUN and back to OFF. You should see the contacts inside K16 changing position. K16 is the crank disconnect relay. If S14 is bad K16 may not move which would prevent the starter turning the engine over via S1.

For reliability you ought to replace, or at least have spares on hand of the better versions of the primary fuel pump and the S1 switch. That S1 switch shaft is plastic and frequently snap off. That's the way my 803 came from auction. Replaced it with the all metal bullet proof 75902LV. The...

I think your S.O.L. trying to use the 460 in your 005. The 460 is rated for use with exciters that are 15 ohms or greater. The 005's exciter is 5.0 ohms. If the 460 was used the 460 would likely go up in smoke trying to drive a 5 ohm load.

I suspect the red fuse was an amperage rating less than 3 amps or possibly not a time delay fuse which cause it to pop. The popping of the red fuse shouldn't have damaged anything. The fuse there is to protect the Quad Winding in the gen head from getting damaged should the AC Voltage...

What was the current rating of the red fuse?