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Yeah unfortunately it is probably THE biggest safety issue on these trucks. You got a free militarized class 8 semi truck...... that just be the way the cookie crumbles sir.

They were problematic when old. And haven't been manufactured since at least 2011. Sidewall failures on these trucks often result in a roll-over accident. Usually crush the cab - often with fatalities. The military won't mount any tires more than 6-7 years old for good reason...

Things like the type of bolts used, type of grease seals, etc. stuff that really doesn't matter. The newer Meritor joints come with break away bolts that snap off at the correct torque. Older ones come with normal bolts, etc. They all work fine.

In the interest of tying things together..... It would seem that my use of the older A0/A1 pedal valve assembly ties in with the larger 12/16 brake cans on the A1R to provide quite a bit stronger brakes. I LOVE the way they work together...

Why? Why not just replace the diaphragms? It's super easy to swap them. Takes a few minutes per. I made a post about it. Apparently the older trucks use smaller diaphragms on I think the rear..... Read the thread and all the replies...

Yes 5-279X will work.

Bushings I wouldn't worry about. U-joints should be greased every 3-5k miles. Replaced every 15k miles on the high angle drive line trucks. The rear shaft for sure anyway. They are cheap and easy to change - don't risk a failure. You'll be looking for a new truck. The speeds these turn at the...

The truck pictured has Michelin XML's. Very dangerous. You need new tires on that immediately.

Yeah it's all in there.

I think it's a confluence of lifelong obsessions and experiences in industry and military. Have you sent me a thumb drive for TM's and tech info? Most of this type of information is buried in the GB's of data I've amassed and the "skill" is being able to search all that data and knowing what...

Huh. Yeah they do appear to be different. The cross is there in case the bead lock shifts - so it can't block airflow. These are the correct valve stems according to the TM - Haltec AMG4: https://www.haltec.com/pc/Standard-Bore-Double-Bend-Turret-Valve-p3250.htm...

Those look the same as what I used. NOS military versions. :unsure:

You don't need to buy overpriced, plastic, tiny "RV" windows because our boxes are not plastic and fiberglass crap. The "RV" windows have rounded corners to prevent the plastic skin from cracking at stress points. Not an issue with our all aluminum construction. My windows are custom sized...

I wonder how many could still exist... how many were even made. The Crew Protection Cab for the HIMARS was fairly short lived.

I will be firing out my walls similar to Third, but I sprayed it all with Lizard skin and that stopped a TON of the thermal bridging. The interior skin temps went down by 20 degrees. Well worth the effort IMO. Also the stock windows are (unfortunately) total garbage and will sweat also. At...

That's absurd. I love it. The commanders hatch is pretty useful actually. Being able to access the roof without ladders.....

My 2008 M1079 A1R has 4 leaf springs in the front. If this turns out to be workable - it would be easier to just torch through the spring and let it unload and then it should be trivial to remove.

Lucky you! Didn't even have to pull it yourself!

The glad hands on the front of the truck used for towing - Service brakes are blue, Emergency brake control is red. The dust covers have vents and those MUST be clear or the brakes will lock up and refuse to release or be lazy in their release.

Had not considered attempting that. Obviously the coil over assembly is stupidly heavy and that spring will need some containment to attempt removal. Move very cautiously in taking them apart. I look forward to hearing your results.....