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Military LTS wheels are the safest lockring wheels made. The part of the ring that goes down into the tire keeps it from coming off as soon as the tire has maybe 10PSI in it. Over 50 years changing these wheels, never even had a close call.

Chances might be your new loom is an older version, and doesn't have provisions for turn signals at all. It is easy to add the necessary wires along the existing pathways, and wrap the whole thing in tape again to cover the added wiring.

I'll never understand why a shop will stall out a 1 inch impact wrench on every nut. They never think how some poor guy will have to change a tire in the field. That, and such extreme torque can waller out the hole taper badly or even split the rim where it is close to the center hole...

You have to run the starter to turn the dist to open & close the points to get spark, and not with a meter. Just a jumper from ground to close to the HV end of the coil.

The motor pool shop at Yuma Proving Grounds always flushed brake systems with denatured alcohol, weather Dot 3 or 5. That catches any moisture as well.

Just like mixing up plug wires, but no backfires...

That is a centering indentation used in a lathe to thread the end that goes into the socket.

Pull the dist cap, and crank while using a short piece of wire from ground to close to the HV coil output to see if you're getting spark. If so, then your rotor or cap or wires are/is defective.

Memphis ought to have them.

Replaceable Bronze bushings, available from several SS supporting members.

Not part of either the original hot water or gasoline heater. 12V civvy stuff.

Rubber hose from the windshield bolt, then thru the double rubber grommet with the speedo cable (If I remember rightly).

The first thing I'd do is a compression test. If that shows fairly even across the board, I'd have the injectors rebuilt. Lots of places in the US can do it, usually it is a piece of junk that made it into one after a filter change or some such operation. In a high-mileage situation, the tip...

Your truck is cursed. It needs an exorcism. :eek:

I was referring to the military 24V Signal Stat box. It had to be used with a proprietary control handle. I'm aware they still make a lot of good automotive items, jut not that one.

All I've ever seen in 5-tons are regular size Zerks. I had your problem, and it turned out to be a worn-out chuck on the grease gun.

In post #6, I believe that is a trailer wheel. M715 wheels are a lockring type.

Those Crosby's are not the same, they need to be permanently swaged. The one used on most military winches is a screw-together job, with a bronze insert that supports the individual strands. A bench vice and a quality open-end wrench are all one needs to remove/install those. Something to be...

A clutch linkage is a lot easier to fix than a transmission...:unsure:

That Signal Stat turn signal control box is the very early attempt at such. Really junk, Don't even try to use that logic. Too bad your rig is all 12V now. Sad.