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This is a dash I pulled some time ago. I wasn't trying to repair anything, rather salvage everything before it was scrapped. Not hard to do for firewall repairs, if one disconnects everything, pops out the instrument cluster and pulls the Bowden cables from wherever. Sorry 'bout the...

I've heard it said the early original naturally aspirated Multifuel 427 was the best one.

The 'Whistler' was the most desirable, and that was only because of it's note.

I've seen the entire dash panel removed to do those jobs, there aren't too many bolts to deal with.

Speedo cables are easy to deal with. Unscrew the nut, and just pull it off. You won't hurt anything. It is a good time to squirt a bit of oil down the cable, it likes to be lubed a little. Putting it back on is easy as well, just wiggle it in and run the nut up snug.

I sold Don a good running Continental 6602 engine, said to go in his Autocar tractor. I wonder if that ever happened, or is it still sitting on it's transport frame?

Now there is some rare info. Copy that.

We get to Prescott now & then, I'll try and remember to PM you if heading there. I have an M113 radiator for sale, small world. (6V53 version) D

LU-2 is a 2-ton winch. The LU-4 is a 4-ton, but derated for the M37 to 7,500 lbs. BTW the MU-2 was a WW2 winch, found on many Dodge WC's.

Where be you located? I'm about 35 miles SW of the Phoenix metro in Hidden Valley. Dennis

Your transfer case is synchronized, and if there is sufficient torque while underway, it may be really hard to shift. As said, use the clutch, or bump the throttle when moving and pulling on the lever.

Also seen it with a 100kW genset on it.

Keep in mind the standard Milspec flashers/control handles are poorly designed. One quicky short anywhere between the handle and lights, one or both are gone. At the least, put an inline 10A fuse in the flasher feed and brake light switch. At the best, get the one by Nartron, rather than the...

No bolts, just a piece of steel rod, drilled on each end for cotterpins and washers. Easy to make them up from a ground rod, and they are Copper covered so won't leave rust stains.

Dup post.

Ah, don't overthink this. The truck was designed when all cars & trucks did front lighting that way. If you are OCD about it for 'safety' cut the lead from the park lights, and splice it into the lead going to the taillights. Voila!

I hear Cali has some very restrictive DMV opinions on bringing ANY MV into the state and trying to register & plate it. Have you got that sorted out?

What a mess. I'd restore it to stock, the parts all go together with little hassle. G744 aka Dennis

I called you...

Don't know why one needs a CDL for a deuce, maybe in some states. Active MV's don't stop for DOT scales anyway, if you do go thru, it adds unwanted attention. A temp plate for moving it is easy to get. Get some cushions for the seats, sitting on bare metal/wood is very uncomfortable for any...