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I did think about it using some old drive flanges to make some seal setting tools, but the only two I have access to are the ones on my truck. I use those to run my front axle. I thought about finding some flanges and welding a large/rod shaft down into the splines so it sticks out of the top...

It doesn't damage the seal. If you think about, the seals get cold in the winter when the truck sits outside. As long as you don't touch the rubber, you should be fine. Using the hub cap as a seal driver works fine, because it clears the rubber part of the seal while evenly resting on the metal...

When I put my front seals in, I put my new seals in a freezer, to make them contract a little bit. I also used a 3lbs. sledge hammer, a plate of steel, and the splined hub cap to drive my front seals. The hub cap mates evenly on the seal. One or two hits is all it took for me.

My shifter in my M818 does the same thing. I thought it was normal. I've seen replacement shifters on ebay for around $80 or so. Might be time for a replacement.

If you replace your torque rod bushings, get the ones with the safety bar. They only cost a few dollars more than the bushings without the safety bar. You'll need a 2-1/4" wrench too.

I have finally gotten to mount my IR driving light. I had to cut a bigger than I liked hole in the fender to clear the light bucket. Here are some pics of the project so far. I still have to hit it with some more paint, and wire it up. I was thinking about using an OFF-ON-ON switch for the low...

I didn't know they were using the term TrueTrac back then. It sounds like it's an old name of the division that was manufacturing the No-Spins. I've always heard Detroit locker, or No-spin locker. My M818 is an old USMC truck. It has the No-Spin lockers in the two rear differentials with the...

It sounds like Floridianson meant to say Detroit instead of TrueTrac. Although now I'm thinking about Detroit lockers in the rear, and a TrueTrac in the front... or TrueTracs all around? 5 ton TrueTracs would get a lot of people interested.

After sand blasting, or using a flap disc, I've been using Moeller 025802. It's an acid etch zinc phosphate primer. It's primarily used on aluminum, but can be used on steel as well. It's supposed to be used below the water line. After it cures, I apply several coats of rapco "383" green...

I've used the flex seal rubber spay coating for my battery hold-down. I sprayed mine over an acid etch marine primer, so far so good. If you use flex seal, just be sure to tape everything off due to how messy it is. You might consider the brush on version if you want something more like a...

I have 2 lockers in my rear axles on my M818. My tires seem a little more worn than the front, but that's from my driving habits of not letting up in most corners. Also when the roads are wet, covered in ice, it feels like rear of my truck pushes the front of the truck. What I mean by this is it...

I tied it into in-let/out-let for the heater core. I had some 5/8" hose on hand, and hose clamps so attaching it was no big deal. Then I opened all the pet cocks, and open the coolant tank. I didn't run the engine while doing this, so the flow really didn't matter. It just took about 10 minutes...

When my truck does it, The sound comes from the entire bellhousing/back of the engine. It was hard for me to find what was making the noise. If it is coming from the passengers side, have you greased all the zerk fittings on that side, and did you check your exhaust. If the exhaust stack or...

Here is my proof of concept, I'm going to smooth and round out the notches for the ears on the IR light. After that is done, I'll use an epoxy primer on it and go from there. You can see from the back it will clear the head light bucket. These next two pictures shows the need to modify the...

Hey Ajax, does your noise sound kinda like a metallic chirp? If it does, check and make sure your starter isn't sporadically engaging. Mine was/is doing that due to a faulty ignition switch, and PCB box. I'm still tracking down electrical gremlins, and everyone I have found has been some old...

One thing I have noticed is that just about every one likes the IR driving lights, despite there is no real use for them. At least for me. LOL If a clear lens/non filtered lens can be had, then it can be used as an auxiliary light. The other problem is where to mount them. I have seen some...

Here is picture from an M809 series with 2 batteries. I have the positive slave cable connected to the positive battery post (black cable under red cap) and negative slave cable connected to the frame, I don't have my 12v glow pug hooked up right now, you can see wire hanging up in the righthand...

Thankx for the acknowledgment, and this Great write up. I know this will help others with M809 trucks make there alternator upgrade go smoother. I do like the adjustment rod over the slotted arm. It really is fantastic by comparison. Did you have to put new/different size belts on like many...

I just found my copy of the wiring diagrams for the M809 trucks. I'm going to start checking things from the back taillights, trailer plug, wire harness for cut wires, going all the way to the turn signal lever. I Do have a LED test light pick, but that's it. Would I need a multimeter for this...

The lights cutting off only happen when the lights are on. Is it possible for the 3-lever switch to be going bad, or could I have short somewhere that gradually overloads the lights? For the turn signal, I'll start checking at the turn signal lever for the short. I do have a replacement plug...