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That's great! Finally found that thread. I use a hydraulic shop for my weird fittings most of the time. You won't find that at any hardware store. Google one in your area. If they don't then they have outlets that will. Online you'd have to search that thread in unf I think.
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Ok I'd look for a metric 1.5 thread by 12..14ish?? If the 3/8 is loose it's probably metric. The 16 thread is very close.
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Oh, ok! I see in the Amazon add the heater core port has a bolt in it? Or is it just a plastic cap? I'd bet it's a half inch unf thread. The port for the sensor is probably 1/8 inch unf. The adapters are out there on Google, plus I use a hydraulic shop for this stuff in the past, too.
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I use the 6tl in all mine. I found different availability depending on where you live though. I'm not far from a decent military base and found a interstate battery dealer that has pallets of them in stock all the time. Right at 400 a pair. The post mounts for the battery hold down can be moved...
That's a nice replacement! If you click more information it shows the thread sizes in the description of the part. I put one from this brand in a 58 Ford custom 300 last week. Fit perfect...was highly surprised as I figured I'd have to make it fit.
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My truck does that. I can drive it for an hour then if it sits for about 45 minutes no glows. I put a push button in it just for that situation.
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I don't think any have the capacitor on the outside...that's strictly military for radio interference. Not needed, but you can get an extra one from the rebuild kit and put one on it if you want. Unless you're running radios you won't need it.
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Does that mean your gonna get that saw out of the box? Don't tell me you haven't charged the batteries for that lawn mower yet!! Rain should be done by 1!
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Pop in the tm and find an nos original. There's a bunch out there. I think eastern surplus has them. I've got 2 but my own stash. Stay away from parts stores they'll sell the wrong stuff or junk plenty of original stuff out there.
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I rebuild all mine. Not expensive and easy to do. Things I look for is the lower bolt bushing is loose and greased...the front housing sometimes is hard to get out of the bearing.
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Out of curiosity are you going to pull the 700 apart to see if a sun gear, planetary or sprag gave out? They are known for that. Tough to test a torque converter but the input shaft could have stripped out but you can see that if you pull the converter off.
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If you can't find fusible link local, you can order some online plus some extra for the next one. If they have an assortment that works best. Could be the old connection from that alternator hit ground and cooked.
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It varies big time...I have one that's pulling 45 to 50 hg and one that just hits 15. I've added 2mm hose to the ip studs to increase throw on that one to raise the shift point.
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No there's the spindle that has to come off first. There's 6 nuts that hold it on if I remember right. I've used several methods of getting it off after they're taken off. A big dead blow hammer has worked on non rusty ones and a nice sharp cold chisel for the sticky ones going around the...
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