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I have one of those that is very nice but I can't find a good nozzle for it...or I'm doing it wrong...it leaks out everywhere, I even put my finger over the breather hole while I tip it in. Put new gaskets on it. I've got at least 10 of the round screw in style that I use donkey dongs or screw...
That doesn't mean it's a bad pump it's just putting out a high pressure and the relief valve is kicking in. To be sure you'd have to hook a trans gauge to line pressure and see what it is .
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
They make a rear floor pan that starts at the middle or so of the front seats and goes up to the rear seat foot well. They are not a perfect fit by any means so you gotta be good at fab and have some steel to use to finish the floor support. Classic 2 current Fabrication part number SKU...
I doubt you'll hit the rad with anything...it is really far from the crank snout...pop a double layer of card board in front of it, though, just in case. I'll hunt my puller installer out...I own mine but I think advance auto rents them or others. I think I used a steering wheel puller to get...
Yeah I used 3/8 and 1/4 inch mostly. Used the fuel injection style clamps too. The new screw style clamps are so cheap now I don't trust them. Went out to the garage and found that socket I used to put in front seals. It's a axle nut socket for something but can't remember...go to many. I'd...
Motor mounts are not bad but it's 2 of us doing them...me holding or installing stuff from up top and the kiddo under. He's really good at it. We found lifting just the drivers side of the engine with a cherry picker gets both sides up evenly to do both at the same time. Look out for the fuel...
Tough call on doing the entire floor pan. It does cost some but not crazy and it isn't that tough to do. You'll end up with a very tight body though. On ours the rear seat pockets were gone so it only made sense to just do all of it. Think it was around 300 from LMC for all 3 parts.
Yeah you'll have to figure out what it does. That's something someone put in there. Probably start with what does the switch turn on and off. Gotta be careful with that with installing the brake stuff since it has to work every time.
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Ok so sounds like the cylinder is worn out. I know you can rent the puller tool from advance auto but I'm not sure about the press for the c clip...some have that in it. Those are cheap to get though. Things I like to replace while in there are the parts for the horn...all of them! The insulator...
I've got a bunch of rims plus one brand new one...I get them whenever I can. Since I have 3 it's good to have spares. Look on marketplace for a 1009 part out. That's where I get mine.
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
Only thing that gives me a minor heartattack is the positive cable right over the home made steel battery hold down. The relay for the starter is a standard gm relay not a doghead but no big deal. Are all the wires still there for the drivers alternator?
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
If that's all you got that's not a big deal at all. Looks like they unhooked the blackout switch and hooked it directly to the fuse box...not how I would have done it but ok. I see it next to a 5 amp fuse...I'd pull it and see if it is...headlights need 25 amps...be curious which fuse is feeding...
Using a manual switch is nice if the card is bad or the system needs help once in a while to get going. It's very simple to do...just ground the wire and the relay turns on. Cards are out there still so you can get a good one.
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
The fun part of these is figuring out what the other owners did before. One thing about the wiring is it is extremely simple. Not that many wires to play with. If you haven't found the wiring in the tm yet it will be in the sticky at the beginning of the cucv stuff. Good to have.
Sent from my...
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