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This is essentially the 6.5 filter, comes with built in WIF and heater. And I believe there is a bleeder on top. https://leroydiesel.com/products/ffm-w-ftb-mod-complete-kit/

That makes sense, thanks!

I am in the process of adding a turbo to my 6.2 and am wondering which is the correct (or better) way to route the CDR valve. The CDR on a NA 6.2 pulls from the oil fill tube, through the valve, and into the intake manifold. The 6.5 CDR pulls from the p-side valve cover and into the intake...

Next up, the fun(er) part of my build, time to turbo the ole 6.2. Gonna add head studs, main bearing cap studs, timing chain, and a flow cooler water pump as well. So far I started pulling everything apart, got the alternators, power steering pump, and intake off.

I ended up changing the trailer hitch receiver out for a class 5 BW hitch instead of the Curt that I originally put on. Somehow I lost a mounting bolt on the receiver last year so it slightly bent the bottom flange of my frame. And I wasn’t impressed with how the Curt spread the load out, it...

These are also pretty good. https://www.themotorbookstore.com/1984-chevy-ld-truck-10-30-series-shop-manual.html?gclid=CjwKCAiA3pugBhAwEiwAWFzwdXe3mnfm5F6WqOt3PpVo1bDpsyM0ldJwpFwvjcb2C3-FOZn5DROkOBoCT-0QAvD_BwE

Finished up the rest of the brakes yesterday. Changing the e-brake cable seemed to help, turns out the original cable was pretty stiff in the sleeve. It ended up being the 55 1/2” cable. And got the ebc pads put on the front. I’ve attached images of the cable and brake pad part numbers I used...

Next up, braking improvements. Last year I installed new pads and shoes, but overall I wasn't impressed with the braking. Granted I was still able to lock up the fronts, but the peddle felt like a brick and the rears didn't seem to be doing much. So I decided to do new rotors, pads, drums...

That would make sense so I’m not sure why I had to back it off so much. Like I said even going a few locking positions looser I still couldn’t spin the hub. So I ended up doing it my old fashioned way. I’m not worried as I’ve done it this way already on this truck as well as to other ff axles...

I checked and my socket works. The only thing different is my hub nut has the rounded pockets while your pic shows them square. But I’m any case the square socket ridges still fit the round hole lol. But I’d say you probably don’t need the hub socket though for the 14 bolt, I ended up setting...

For the 14 bolt, I bought this one. Performance Tool W1270 Ford/Gm 4 Wheel Drive Lock Nut Tool https://a.co/d/daBUeaG I’ll be able to let you know tomorrow if it works cause I’m planning on pulling mine apart to change the drums. The first time I had it apart I didn’t use a socket but it’s...

It’s going to be hard to find something you don’t have to drill holes for. If you only plan on light towing you could add a bolt on receiver under the bumper. Any standard receiver will involve cutting the lower part of the bumper mounting bracket and probably drilling new holes, as well as...

Great info, thanks! That sounds like a good plan

Yep the lines I got are the late 6.2 or 6.5 with mechanical IP. So I should be good there. Do you think I'll be maxing out the 6.2 DB2? As long as the 6.2 injectors (being short fine thread version) are compatible with either pump I guess I can start with my existing IP and upgrade to the...

Thanks, yeah the current plan is to start with 1/4 turn which is based off what the old Banks kit specified. But there probably will be more adjustment needed.

I am in the process of obtaining parts for my 6.2 turbo upgrade. I plan on installing 6.5 heads as part of this along with a Quadstar Tuning Super 54 turbo (set for 8-10psi max). My question is, what would be the ideal injection pump (6.2 DB2 or 6.5 DB2) and injectors to match with this setup...

Try this https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/dot-5-dot3.17745/

Nice work! Was the circuit panel you purchased the one from LMC? Or did you get that somewhere else? And with regards to the tank filling, I can’t say for sure but in my experience I’ve had a couple times when I was at the pump I either didn’t have the nozzle angled right in the filler or the...

Thanks! Yeah the rears were easier from that perspective I think too. That axle moved a little but could be nudged back into place. I did the fronts one at a time but it still moved enough that I couldn’t push it back into place. So had to use the strap. But even so wasn’t too bad!

Got the front springs and hardware replaced this weekend as well. These were still original so definitely sagged alot over all these years, and truck was sitting only 1.5” over the bump stops so it would hit those pretty often. Fairly straight forward to change, had to use a ratchet strap to...