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I have seen the needle flutter on a system that worked just fine so I would say that is normal. IIRC it was under a load, be careful and do not press too hard on the brakes as that is how I blew out a hydro-boost one time.

I prefer to use an analog meter (Simpson 260) this way you can watch the voltage and see of there is any "noise" coming out of the potentiometer (TPS) If the voltage rises smoothly (edit while moving the throttle) without any jerky needle movement the pot is good, if the needle jerks around then...

After you connect A and E then you switch on the run switch and read the codes on the trans light. You will find the instructions on page 60 of the supplement.

The way it has been exposed by having no lid and the lines disconnected I would plan on sourcing a new one, pretty important part. Also it is unusual to see an engine with a serpentine belt not to have the 14V tap on the regulator connected, that is a 4 speed truck by model number.

Take a picture of the master cylinder and post a want in the classifieds. A picture here would have helped.

You can change the shift pints somewhat by simply adjusting the TPS position, also you should be looking at the TPS voltage not the resistance.

Welcome to the SS forums!!!!

Do you need the 4L80E supplemental troubleshooting guide? If so I will post it. I understand you are just working from memory so the code you speak of may actually be different :)

What is the unspecified code?

I have not had an accident or ticket in over 20 years and have a perfect credit score, and I live in a low loss county, I am going to give them a call and ask what the heck...

I had 2 HMMWV's with full coverage and it was $1100 a year, both had 25K coverage but that still seems too low for full coverage. I have one now and it is around $600, still 25K coverage.

$51 a year full coverage? that does not sound right. What was your agreed value?

I wonder if you are not having the same issue with the factory run flats as I had with the TWF bead locks. It would make more sense that the bead was "slipping" out from under the run flats influence than deformed due to storage. Did the rim halves go together without much force from the nuts...

Well she runs out real nice, cruises comfortably at around 70, fuel gauge does work. She needs an alignment, but I knew that because of the tire wear. I wish I could keep her but I am getting two knees replaced and a hernia operation by Dec 31 (first knee in 12 days!) so I need the money.

Please let us know where you got them, the cost and how they handle the return

As far as I could tell they were stock factory rockers.

Curious, did you check the rim for radial runout? Does the mounted tire have any radial runout? Post 46 had them mounted on 24 bolt paired rims, yes they look great!!

So I finished all the service today, installing a new trans pan and filter was the last item. So I get a pair of channel lock pliers and go over every nut and bolt I can get a hold of from pintle hitch to front shackles. I found ALL 4 tie rod nuts were loose :mad: I have seen more competent work...

It would only take a few minutes to swap them and see if the problem moves, that would ether confirm or eliminate the lights as the issue.

Yes it is normal for the lights to stop flashing when the brake is depressed, you must be fairly young as all vehicles did that a few decades ago before they separated the turn from the brake lights. As I said I would remove the ground from that light and see if the symptoms stay the same, I...