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You need to pick up a power steering analyzer, they come in the HMMWV tool kits, 57K0267 and 57K0268 and test the pressure/flow of your steering pump. You should at least have the kit 57K0267 to properly maintain your HMMWV in the the first place, I see one on fleabay for $400 shipped, if you...

You could also just remove the ground from that light's grounding bar and see if the symptoms stay the same, it is possible the defect is in the light fixture itself, if so grounding the ground bar may not have any effect.

Run a wire from the neg lead of the battery to the neg lead of your meter, then connect the red lead to the ground bar on the light and see if you see any voltage there when the turn signal is not working. Or you could run a temp lead from the neg battery to the ground bar on the light, same...

So you did this before the SF-97 was issued? or did you get a revised SF-97 (IIRC that would not likely happen)

That sounds like a ground issue at the light, with the running lights off the turn/brake signal can find a path to ground through the running light system, once the running (tail, marker etc) lights are turned on that path to ground is gone.

Yes, being over 25 years old has its advantages, hope you can work that out.

I am also interested in how 4x4nutz fixed it..

Sorry, forgot you did not get it from GP The last few truck I have bought, GP sent me the SF-97 application and I filled out anything missing, and one time slipped through a change in description that they did not notice (or say anything) but was correct

Should be a 2006-7 You get it out of Lytle?

What model and what serial number (you can xxx the last three digits) Also there is no year on the data plate?

What kind of title paperwork did you get??

Yep, sometimes just working the connectors helps, glad you have a working transmission now!!!!

Holy auto correct!! was installing a pan on a 4l80 and was not paying attention :ROFLMAO: I am sorry if I offended anyone :)

Since you see the TPS voltage at the TCM box, if you are still throwing a 22 code then the problem is 99% likely in the box. It is possible that disturbing all those connections may have cleared the TPS problem, why I say to re-confirm the code 22.

I would be surprised if you do not find moisture inside, that does not look like a very "tight" box. Give the penetrant some time, find a flat face punch that fits the dia. of the screw heads and a few whacks may also help.

All the ones I have messed with have allen head cap screws, the one you have looks like a poor design, I assume it is an early one.

Yes removing the continuous 12V that is going to the TCM erases the stored codes. So you are having problems removing the top screws from the TCM case?? If so before stripping them use something like this (hand impact driver) with a bit that properly fits the screws. (you may already be using...

IT is OK to connect and disconnect the TCM with the batteries connected but never with the truck in run position. You can carefully use a pair of channel locks on the connector just to get it started, be gentle though.

If that voltage is on #355 at the box then pull the TCM box (4 nuts under the body) and remove the top, remove the TCM and check for water/moisture in the foam under the TCM. IF that all checks out stick the box back into the truck (no need to bolt it down) without the top and check for the .44V...

That is normal, open the throttle and the voltage on 355 should go up to around 4-4.5V Now you get to back up to the TCM box and check voltage on #355 at the box, again must be done in run with the TCM connected. You may need to carefully trim the outer braid back on the harness to get enough...