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It may smoke some but not a lot and it should not run rough. Are you sure the engine is a reman? Let it run about 10 mins and if its still running rough and smoking, you may have more issues.

Looking good, just switch the rotor and flywheel over to the new engine and put it back in reverse.

You will need to unbolt the lug panel and push it to the side. Then take the center support off (inbetween the doors on the back) so you can get a puller on the rotor bearing, take the louvered cover off, take the four nuts off holding the stator (housing) to the motor, and finally just lift the...

Ray just got some stabile fogging oil at walmart last week to get my boat ready for winter.

I usually take the back half (radiator side) in one piece. Unbolt from the skid and pull that section with the radiator off. Then I leave the generator head bolted to the skid and use a 3 point puller on the back of the generator head to push the rotor out of the housing with the engine...

Diodes look good, that is the way they are suppose to look. But still test them and the 56 ohm resistor on the bottom

I would say you have air in the cooling system. If you don't get the air out it will overheat because the fluid is not flowing. Try taking the top radiator hose off and refilling through the hose. That will push all the air out the cap or thermostat housing.

Your batteries have one or more dead cells. Change them out and it will start.

I'll take 2 if you haven't submitted the order. I'll take 2 if you haven't submitted the order yet.

Keep it. I was replacing a water pump one time and tapped the corner with a hammer to break it loose off the motor and cracked. One and only time but glad I had a parts unit.

This makes a lot of sense because he doesn't have a lot of experience with with the unit. So if he just releases the start switch as soon as it fires, its going to shut down due to low oil pressure.

There is a Woodard on the big auction site now for $200. Never used the generic one before.

Lower hour units will be super tight. Compress the spring on the bottom just alittle to see if it gets looser. You'll need to just keep cleaning and moving them back and forth multiple times (hundreds) LOL!

Yes, I've had several units with less than 10hours on them. Also had the documents inside the unit to prove the hours. My oldest unit was a 1994 with 17 hours.

Has anyone been able to get their hands on the manuals for the HDT 35kw GET units? Working on one now that has a good motor but not producing power.

Delks has the cheapest remanufactured pumps. I think $600. Rebuilt by the US government.

I think your only option is heat if you caused that much damage so far. I've had several motors with the stuck flywheel as you. You need to apply heat slowly and tap with the hammer. Only way to get them off. I also use an impact wrench to slowly take it off.

It fits nice in the appropriate place, light in the dark lead me to the transducer and I tried it. It's been working perfectly for the last few weeks. When mounting, 2 of the original mounting bolts (holes) will work, you can use those 2 or you can drill 2 more additional holes so all 4 mounting...

None of these go to your unit. The spring could but it doesnt look long enough in the pic.

I agree with the statements above. Loose connections and CVT1. Also check the R1 resistor on the excitor board and the transformer behind CVT1 (its in the back towards the left)