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You would need to run water in the top hose and have the radiator cap off. You will have a steady stream coming from the thermostat housing. Sounds like the gauge or sending unit is bad if it showed 240 because it shuts down at 220. The TM shows how to test the sending unit. Yes the thermostat...
Back to your original question. Only 1 803a. Fermont and Libby made the units to military specs. Onan bought the rights on the motor from Lister Petter to put them in the generators. That is why sometimes you see Onan stickers or lister petter stickers on the motor but Lister Petter is the real...
Fastest way is to take the radiator and entire back of the genset loose and pull it as one unit. Then remove the fuel tank so you don't damage. Then remove the bolts on the motor holding it to the frame, take the 4 nuts off the genhead from the lug side and finally use a bearing puller on the...
You don't want to go bigger because 7.5amps is there for a reason. May want to try and replace the breaker with a newer one. I've had a couple of units with weak breakers, that would pop for never reason.
I agree its the EMI filter on the fuel pump. Follow the wire you disconnected for the pump that tripped the breaker, does it go to a square box or cylinder type contraption before getting to the actual pump? If it does, that is the EMI filter. Cut it out and splice the wires together.
I disagree with leaks. I've never had oil leaks on any units I've worked on. I've worked on everything from 2hrs to 8,000hrswith no sign of leaks. The biggest issue is the return fuel lines that leak. They don't have oil pan's
Just to give some real life experience. I have a customer running his 802a, approximately 24hours a day, for the past 3 years and just logged 23,000 hours.
Items replaced:
2 alternators
1 water pump
1 overtemp switch (thermostatic switch)
2 batteries because one of the cables rubbed against...
Hard to find new but you may find one through Delks Army Surplus. They are really simple and you maybe able to fix the problem if you remove the circuit board from the box and do some testing.
Looks like a good unit. Just be ready to change the returns lines. If its going to be your primary or back up unit, you need to change them because they will leak. Just put fluids in, use the dead crank to move oil around and then start.
Ray,
What you described as the conical shaped metal part with a small hole, is the top of the plunger. You do not need to hold the throttle up to see it rotate and move. You should see that turning and going in/out as you rotate the motor by hand. If its stuck us a punch and lightly tap with a...
Gene,
Great write up and so happy you joined the site! Like Guyfang said, don't worry about wet stacking with your set-up and load testing monthly. It takes many hours of light loads to have problems. Glad you've been happy with the units.
Jimmy Wieber
FU1 is only for the alternator recharging, does not effect starting. I usually get a fuse used in microwaves (glass type can't remember amperage). These units are known to have faulty master switches, that is what Guyfang is wanting you to check.
DC power comes into MT4 Stint, then to the CB1...
For the hard line, I would call Delks or check with DPEquipment on the big auction site. They are selling a lot of different used parts for 802-803a, they may have it but not listed.
Missing fuel pump, fuel cutoff solenoid, coolant temperature sender, and primary hard fuel line going to each injector pump. Everything can be found on the big auction site except the hard fuel line with the bolt that attaches to the fuel bowl.
After you get the fuel system cleaned, try to move the throttle linkage on the injector pump up, I'm betting its not going to move. The plunger inside the pump always gets gummed up and if its at the lowest position when starting, it will break the plunger guide. Then you have to disassemble the...
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