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Yes, 100% sure. Load tested each battery. Can also jump the starter and the it starts right up.

You are correct.

Ok so I put the relay back in and install the special relay box. Now the fault indicator lights work but still no start.

PM me a quote if you have time. I've got 4 that need work, I just haven't thought about.

Open up the gauge panel, look on the back wall to the left and you will see the resistor board. Look at the 2nd to the bottom diode, it will say CR1. Check voltage on the right of the diode, it should be 24v and then check on the left side, it should read 24v. I bet it reads 0, if it reads 0...

Thanks Guy, I'll put back in tomorrow and give an update.

Does anyone know if Storeman still rebuilds the injectors???

I should mention, that I can hit the battle short on and the fuel pumps activate, then when I go to run on the start switch, the fuel pumps activate and the gauges move into position, so I'm getting power. Guy I did reset CB1 thinking the same thing. So I pulled the special relay box and I...

Just got in a mint 004a with 27 hours after a tier 2 reset in 2006. Everything worked perfect, then one of my guys was power washing the bottom of the set, under the motor and accidentally touched the positive cable on the starter to ground with the metal power washer hose. Now I have no start...

Since the unit was giving proper output and then stopped, I would take the top off the gauge cluster to make sure all the connections are tight/clean. You will then be able to test the direct leads out of the generator to see if its the generator itself. It could be a dirty connection on S8...

Those wires hook into the emergency stop switch and were a remote shut off for a specific purpose. Usually for a mobile sateillate system.

I agree with Ray, it should still start at that position. I've never seen both injectors stuck but anything is possible.

Ok, so the reason it's not starting is because of the pumps. Do not presume you need new pumps, they really do not go to the point of being unserviceable. The pin and collar you reference fit into the fuel rack, the rack is a thin piece of metal that runs along the block, which all the pumps fit...

To check the pumps follow the instructions below 1st take the hard line off the top of the pumps and zip tie out of the way 2nd take the top of the pump off, the part the hard line attaches to, Be careful because there is a spring under the housing you're taking off. Usually its a 3/4 or 11/16...

So, is it staying engaged while its running or is it grinding after its running and you go to start again? If its continuing to be engaged after the master switch goes back to prime and run, its more than likely A1 relay assembly. It has a diode behind it and if it fails will continue to keep...

You can rebuild the motor without removing it from the unit unless your going to get it tested for cracks. I bet you just need rings and the engine honed, very easy to do with the unit in place.

4 items I would check. CVT1 transformer. Big black transformer on the bottom of the output box. Its actually 2 transformers mounted together CVT1 is in the back Exciter board A4 VR. Sometimes to check the VR you can take number 17 off the VR board and tape it up. Start the unit and if voltage is...

More than likely the plunger guide is broken. You can do a flow test on the pump to confirm, I have never seen both injectors bad where the unit would not produce smoke or start. Flow test: 1st: take the valve cover off, then rotate the motor over by 5/8 bolt on the blower and watch the intake...

They are all mechanical so I don't have to worry with an ecm.

Found a Caterpillar 3024c which is the same motor, about 5 hours from the house. I'll rebuild it and slap it in there.