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Yeah, I followed the previous instructions and got the tailgate off without much fuss. The only problem was one side had short bolts and the other side was longer, necessitating a deep socket to grab the nut. Next step is to remove the muffler. TM's say I'll need to disconnect the driveline.

Thank you. That thread is what I've been looking for. Now I've have to wait for this hurricane to pass before I can work on my truck again.

Hi all, I was troubleshooting my parking brake warning light late last night, and disconnected the parking brake warning switch under my HMMWV. Like all HMMWV's it has those single wire waterproof electrical connectors. When I pulled one apart a small brass looking c-washer fell out and...

More like 2 months to clear if it was a Marines truck. I just got a parts M1123 also with the intake manifold removed and that's how long it took.

Future zombie apocalypse vehicle.

3L80 and yes, but not in the civilian HMMWV. There's an external cooler at the radiator.

Might only be good for parts. I wouldn't want to deal with the titling nightmare. Buy it with a bill of sale only and avoid the SF-97 nightmare.

How do you get around the body bushing to reach the nut? Any special technique?

The tailgate currently has shims so it probably wouldn't need to be flush, but I agree I wouldn't be as structurally sturdy. If I can get to the third bolt to remove it, I should be able to put it back on so that's what I'll do. Thanks for your help.

Okay, thanks. Once I get it off it may be a good time to test my rivnut tool and make it easier to replace in the future.

Hi all. I want to swap a nicer tailgate from a junker HMMWV to my running M1114. Both trucks have similar tailgates with hinges bolted to the frame. Two of the bolts and nuts on each side are easy to access. The third's nut is covered by body a bushing and blocked by angled metal. Feeling...

Not sure on the brakes, but it sounds like you have air in the power steering lines. Especially if the quick disconnect was off. I had the same problem with my truck and followed this TM to purge the lines: http://www.hummerknowledgebase.com/susp/ppsp.html

Probably used for identification to prevent friendly fire.

Sounds like a couple phone calls to local mechanics are in order. These trucks are dead simple to work on. (At least compared to modern cars) x2 on supplying TM's when dropping off the truck.

Did you check the TM for a truck that has a 2 man soft top? Maybe a TM for an M1097.

I wrote a letter a couple weeks ago to my state senator about this title B.S. here in Florida and to my amazement, I got a response saying he'd look into it.

I literally took some rope, looped it over the tensioner pulley and used my weight to pull it down while under the truck. Then slipped the belt around the pulley.

I saw a couple trucks on a certain website listed as N1097. It's also stated on the data plate. Are they from the Navy? I can't seem to find anything online about an N designation...

Not particularly. Just make sure it's origianal and not a Chinese knockoff. Many people here swear by the vendors on this forum. I bought mine off ebay to save $10 because I'm cheap. Also don't start your truck until it's installed and you've checked all the fluids.