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Hi all, Does anyone have a A1R? Would you please look at the air switch behind the left front step. I need to know the numbers from the tag on those wires and where they go to. I thought they were in the bumper harness with the wires for the lights but now that I have used up all those wires I...
Too much weight hung even further out on the water pump. I am skeptical. OEM cat pulley is only $220 and compressor mounts can be found for around $300, compressor for less than $200. I know it all adds up!!
Come to a stop on a hill, put in neutral, release brake. The truck will not roll. Consensus seems to be it is normal. Maybe it is an attempt at a 'park' function. So is it reliable as in will it hold the truck stationary as long as engine is running.
I noticed today that when I put the trans in neutral and come to a stop that at near zero mph the trans locks the driveshafts, holding the truck with no brakes applied. 2006 A1R. Normal? And how reliable?
I just don't see know that will ever be possible. Remember that cab needs 33000 BTU or more. That eliminates most of the available 'universal' kits. the 4 major components of the A/C are easily over $1000.
OK, with the service side open everything works normally, didn't even notice any air until I put the 2 glad hands on and plumbed them back up with covers in place.
OK, front service glad hand has a vent on the cover and I know it is stuck closed. When using brakes they will not release unless the cover is removed. Is this normal and is the check valve vent the only problem? Why is there pressure there at all?
Tom
Link? No, this is just a commentary of what you can do and how to save. I used a R-9520-3-24 which you can find if you look. Apparently it is for a MRAP. I was offered a 2nd gen A/C unit for $3000. Crazy price. I have compressor brackets for the engine for $350 unpainted with no bolts.
Hi, The price of adding A/C may have just gotten way cheaper if you are a little crazy and also mechanical minded.
You can purchase the 33070 BTU A/C and heat unit for a MRAP, strip it for parts and fit it all very neatly in the LMTV heater box. I am almost finished and have all the functions of...
The 4th battery in the group is fine, tests very good. one bad one was in the high side, one in the low side. they were fine for the first couple weeks.
The 2 that were DEAD show 13 volts, charge at 5 to 8 amps and with a load instantly go to 0 volts. ??? 3rd one shows 13 volts, with load goes to 8 volts and heads for 0 in a couple seconds.
4 NEW interstate batteries 4 weeks ago. Now 2 completely dead and not chargeable, 1 VERY low capacity and 1 good. Never had any luck with interstate 6TL. So problem solved.
Thanks but run ground wire where? And what is the polarity box? Under the air /hyd pump? How to bypass it?
What is notable is the voltage drop on batteries when starter is engaged. 26 volts to 19 volts indicates a huge current draw so how can there be a problem with polarity box, if it was bad...
OK thanks for the suggestions. Maybe I didn't have a battery problem, here is what happens. New batteries fully charged, sit for 2 days with relay off. Batt voltage is 24 volts. Turn on under dash switch and then dash power switch everything seems fine. Push start and clunk, nothing. If hold...
Since I want to remove the entire instrument panel, are the gauge plugs numbered? or only go to one gauge? I have the manual but have been unable to install it.
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