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No, as the provision is written into the DMV instructions covering the licensing for Historic Vehicles. One has to have at least the minimum insurance provided on it, but that isn't really a problem either since the state doesn't have a "no way" attitude in titles and registration to begin with.

I'll get an estimate this weekend. D

I dug around in my stash, and do indeed have a decent outer frame for the M35. Free for shipping from AZ. Dennis

Does anyone have a source for the ether cannisters?

I have a good set or dump rams and some bracketry. I'm not sure just what truck they came off of, but they all do the same job. They were in a lot of parts I got from DRMO years ago, so maybe milspec, but they are painted yellow. Free for shipping, or maybe it is time for you to take a little...

I welded mine out of large car wheels and heavy steel 3" pipe, with a chunk of channel on top to support the frame. They do not adjust, that is what the big jack is for.

I learn something new every day...

Got the plates renewed on the M54A1. $64 for 5 years. Arizona is the deal for historic vehicle plates: No CDL, no weight fee, no DOT crap.

No, sorry. The inners are the same, tho. Those I don't have extras of.

I just jack up the frame (Not the axle) on one front side and it lets the axle fall away enuf to clear.

Never seen an ether start system on a stock G742 deuce, maybe aftermarket. The original cold start system is a manifold heater, using fuel sprayed on an ignitor to make fire and heat the air in the manifold in conjunction with cranking. Works fine, but not usually needed above freezing.

The pressure pump is in the fuel tank. It runs whenever the ignition is on. It has a fuse under a cover on top of the flange, make sure to check that fuse. Another thing that happens is the internal rotor bottom comes loose and falls off. That requires pump removal. Easy enough, just...

According to those that know more than I do about Diesels, an engine will not run on straight ether. It will knock & bang, but that's all. An engine that requires it to start in normal air temps usually has a worn fuel pump. Not the pressure pump, but the one that fires the injectors. The...

Wise advice there.

Simp rules here...

Several guys out here run straight ATF, as they get it used from transmission shops. Not a thing wrong with that.

What engine? Multi or Mack?

Yep, all the waterproof 24V turn signal control handles are junk. Moisture get in. Things corrode up and fail. One short anywhere in any of the five circuits going to lights or brake switch, and pfft--it's toast. The fasher modules are electrically fragile, too. They aren't cheap, either.

I painted an M37 with now-extinct Behr Exterior Stain back in the mid-80's. Russet brown, black, and some Ponderosa Green I. 3-color Leopard pattern. All the guys in the club called crazy for doing it that way. I still have that old beater, still looks the same as it always did.

Keep in mind Mini-Splits use an inverter compressor system which ramps up the compressor gradually to whatever load the called temp is needed to be. No more 600% system shock with them.