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Yes. Its not yours until the euc clears and you get gov permission to take possession of the item.

In the troubleshooting tm it should have the required flow rates for the winch. Under winch not working there should be a hyd pressure test and it will give pass and fail specs.

I have been reading the tms and got the schematic. I unplugged the boom up and boom down safety solenoids and the crane works. So now I have to figure out whats not happy that controls the boom up and down lockouts.

M1084. So the electric solenoid control valve operates independently from the hand control? It feels like its moving the mech. I am going to dig up the hyd flow diagram today see if there is some safety in between.

I have the outriggers down and I can pick up the rear of the boom. All the way. The instruction plate says to boom up for initial raising of the crane.

It’s the boom up feature. There is supposed to be a boom up lockout valve, according to the tm troubleshooting. I couldn’t find it in the parts manual though. It was my previous understanding that the main bank of controls came online with the outriggers down.

I don’t know much about hyd troubleshooting. All the other functions work. Just this one control does not. Its the largest cylinder and it does not move at all. I don’t feel any flow when I operate the valve.

Its all banked together and the lines go to the cylinder.

Yes on a grove crane. The manual part I am having the problem with. I don’t have the remote to operate the solenoids.

I have a bank of hyd controls. One control does not function. The arm moves like the others but does not have the same feel as the others in operation. The other controls that work you can feel the hyd flow as you are operating them. When you operate a working control the arm on the non working...

Once you crimp all the way down it releases and the tool should be open and ready to do the next crimp. Depending on what setting you have it on you may be crimping too deep. You may have to really squeeze it to fully cycle it and then set to a lighter crimp.

That’s an abs module. They are made to be mounted outside.

If you are really running hot then you should let it cool down. You should be able to crank it by jumping the aux start solenoid on the drivers frame rail.

Pull cb22

If you have 12v in and no 12v out then the block is bad. Its just a diode array that prevents someone from blowing up the cab electronics if they put the batts in backwards. You can bypass it. Just dont install any batts backwards.

If you have moisture in the air system on a cold day it can freeze and block off the air release system. Have some one step on the brakes see if air is releasing from the front blue gladhand. You should get a puff when the pedal is released.

Yup I’m thinking that should be addressed. The fan blades themselves are pretty stiff so they won’t flex. if the mounting is flexing somewhere its probably not right. And yes on a bad day the fan clutch can decide to toss the blade into your radiator. Seen that happen a few times.

Its a rotary dash illumination dimmer. Separate from the light switch. I would still start with a multimeter.

The dash illumination goes thru a dimmer switch on the lower right of the dash panel. They can become intermittent. Have you measured the power going to your light with a multimeter?

Wiggle in proper motion or pulling the blade forward play? Is anything loose? Some of the blades are sandwiched between 2 metal plates with rubber between them and the blade in the middle.