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Put the Dead Crank switch in NORMAL, Emergency Off pulled out, CB1 pushed in, S1 in Prime/Run. Now check for about 24 volts at the following points in this order. Left side of MT4 Right side of MT4 Right side of CR1 Left side of CR1 Both used terminals on Emergency Off Switch Both terminals of...

I also uploaded a copy to the TM submittal section for incorporation in the MEP-831A TM collection. Attached is a copy too :)

Sent

I'll email you good copies to work from.

Looks like a few missing CRs

Correct. The HT switch in the back of the block is a NO switch.

The two circled terminals are where you measure the PMA voltage.

The leftmost item in the row of relays is the S14 Frequency Trip Switch. The case looks like a relay but look closely and you should see a printed circuit board inside it. There isn't any reset button on it. The other relays to the right of it are relays and all are the same part number. If...

CR1 failures are fairly common. The circuit design of the generator is incorrect IMHOP. It's current limited by a 7.5 amp circuit breaker. Up to 7.5 amps thru a 3 amp diode.... not good.

From info I have the OP sensor is a 3 wire sensor. Not the typical 2 wire type. The three wires are Ground, +12 volts and the sensor output signal which is 1-5 volts proportional to the OP.

Power on here. -13 this morning.

I guess thats why they used the original well nut. It would conform to the radius. It makes it's seal with the bore of the hole itself in the plastic tank as it expands.

Maybe use some RTV between the brass flange and the metal washer and on the threads under the outer washers.

You need a neoprene washer on both sides of the galvi washer that's on the outside of the tank. Without the second neoprene washer fuel is sneaking under the outside neoprene washer via the threads, under the galvi washer via the threads and then leaking out between the outside of the washer...

Wes, The diode CR1 is bad. There should be about 24 volts on both leads. CR1 needs to be replaced. The part number is 1N5406. When replacing it be sure to note which end of the old CR1 has the white ring around it. Install the new CR1 in the same orientation.

Good. You're going to need to do some DC voltage measurements to see where the 24 volts DC is getting lost. Set the meter to measure DC volts. Pu the dead crank in the Normal position. Emergency Off button pulled out S1 in Prime/Run CB1 pushed in Connect the meters Negative lead to the ground...

Do you have a hand held voltmeter to take some voltage measurements? Don't throw parts at the set. Waste of money and time. The cause of the problem needs to be identified. Then fix or replace what's really needed to repair your set. Kurt

Bang!

Guy, That schematic is for an 802/803. OP is working on an 831.

You can also use some portable space heaters. Just need to wire some outlets to the output lugs. The convenience outlet built into the 803 can only handle 10 amps.