Search results

I would run it out the back. Delete the HUGE muffler for more space between the frame rails. I'm not a fan of where I'm seeing that going. I get the desire for a stack, but maybe an M35A2 for parade duties would scratch that itch.... whistler turbo FTW? I know I want one for that purpose and...

Check ALL your battery connections, the PPD connections, the alternator connections and EVER SINGLE ground you can lay your tools on. Chances are the regulator is having a hard time from bad connections. These brushless alternators respond very slowly to load changes and being you have an A0...

And with the ECO hubs and 3.90's you would get close to 10 mpg. That's a LOT of money over time. They pay for themselves. You would have saved 1200 gallons of fuel. At todays rates you would be ~$4,000 richer right now. Not to mention lighter not having consumed dozens of gas station burritos...

It's not so much a matter of speed. You will realize much better fuel economy if you stick to 50 mph. My fuel economy test showed an improvement of 3 mpg at 55 mph with ECO hubs over the original 3.90 differentials. I'm sure Mike could make you a set without the name on them and I suspect that...

Define "overpriced"? Big rigs are not cheap to run. Specialized Army big rigs are even more expensive to run. Lots of parts not shared by over the road trucks. Any Meritor/Rockwell/Axle-Tech dealer can order the parts. Being you are in Germany it's difficult to recommend anything that is US...

Have you read the thread on them? When you say you are "not really convinced" - convinced of what exactly? What questions and concerns do you still have after reading the entire thread? FWIW - In my opinion 3.07's and 3.90's with the factory reductions are a waste of time unless you are...

Most of this stuff is Viton or silicone from the factory and should last a very long time in service. Barring some kind of fluid contamination, etc. The exception being the CTIS seals which are exposed to potential contamination from the wet tank (fed directly from it). This manifests as gear...

Sadly they have a shelf life. The older FRH (Flameless Ration Heater) tend to just fizzle a bit and get mildy warmish as they age. Insufficient to heat food - won't even produce enough gas for an MRE bomb. MRE's have a 3 year shelf life when stored at or below 80 degrees F. They generally will...

Wow! Everyone getting delectable treats but me. What flavor was the chapstick? :cry:

The Army only allows OEA (Oil, Engine Arctic) in -15F to -50F operation. For all other environments the Army uses 15w40. As for what OEA actually is - depends on when you ask. Right now it's something synthetic that is thinner...... that's all I know. Probably a 10w30 or a 0w30 synthetic. It...

Looks like a pipe plug. Here's mine. I'm guessing that is the access hole for the flexplate to torque converter bolts.

Wow! Score on the Tootsie Roll! I have only got sunflower seeds, a pair of rusty channel lock brand pliers (definitely military), and a pneumatic riv-nut gun that was stashed inside the cab wall behind the drivers side seat belt retractor. Took months to find that one - it rocked side to side...

Yep. Seems like most of these trucks need CTIS seals. Lack of air system maintenance and sitting. Definitely a must-do job while the hubs are apart for ECO hubs, etc.

That's not what I see. I see two sets - one to keep the oil in the axle tube, and another set to keep the oil in the hub. Separated by the u-joint.

No there is two per side. One on either side of the u-joint. Two shafts - one into the axle tube, and one into the hub. Same seal on either side. So one per side, AND one per drawing. Total of four.

It's item 10 in the A1 manual.

The u-joint is a Rockwell/Meritor/Axle Tech CP750N1 Do see some for sale..... https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ROCKWELL-DRIVE-LINE-PARTS-KIT-U-JOINT-P-N-CP750N1-M35-FREIGHTLINER-/143378560714 Probably can cross to something cheaper but with how much work that is to get to.... I've greased mine...

That sleeve looks like it's a discardable sealing surface sleeve. Guessing it's pressed or shrunk on probably with 609 Loctite so it doesn't move or spin. That will be entertaining. If it's on there with green sleeve retaining compound (609) you will have to heat it to get it off and usually an...

Two per truck maybe. If you are going that far in, get new front axle shaft u-joints.

Yeah - Chris's was warped so much I couldn't deck it with my normal manual method. Too much material had to be removed. And it's steel which takes FOREVER by hand with glass.