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It's not a simple problem. You can't just swap back to the shocks used on previous A1 trucks. The shock tower uses completely different hardware and the towers are huck bolted to the frame. Not to mention even finding "new" FMTV shocks. They were made by (near as I can tell) General Kinetics...

The former wetland (now superfund site) near the factory that made the M38A1 rubber still looks like the surface of the moon but hey that rubber is SUPPLE! :ROFLMAO:

This is the kind of overlooked item that wears out engines and shaft seals in a hurry when you are bombing down dusty back roads and overland trails. The original air filter to pipe boot on my 2008 A1R......

ECO hubs makes everything better. The birds chirp louder. The food tastes better. Even the women are more attractive. Promise.

NO. Additives are essentially all Snake Oil. You have no idea how they will react with the base oil and additive package. If it's not in the bottle of oil already DO NOT add it. There's no such thing as mechanic in a can. This is probably a result of multiple factors, but rear main seal...

Not worth it. It's very high power draw. It's designed to operate with a trailer mounted gen set. Inefficient 1980's technology. 60,000 BTU's. It's mad overkill. Improve the insulation and the windows and use one or two of the Chinese diesel heaters inside the cavity that it occupied.

Lizard Skin is AMAZING. It has a matt textured appearance. It can be painted. It dropped the inside skin temps in my M1079 box by 20+ degrees. It's quite the engineered coating. It's used by the Navy, and by many integrators - used on the engine dog houses on fire trucks. Unlike Dynamat and...

Nice! I'm curious to see how that performs. I'm considering painting the roof of my cab in desert tan but stopping about 2" from the edges all the way around so I can keep my 383 OD green plans for the rest of the truck. Won't be able to see it from the ground anyway. Could do white but I can't...

Very little. Just the reservoir contents - I usually just dismount the reservoir. It takes standard cheap 10w hydraulic fluid (tractor fluid).

IDK that this will be the case. A1P2's may never reach the civilian market and honestly - having worked on them - you really don't want one. Just needlessly overweight and nothing to be done about it - cab weighs 4,500 lbs and then you have another ~2,500 lbs of counter-weight in the back to...

Ceramic tint. And Lizard Skin coating for insulation. At least with the Red Dot Gen 2 it's powerful enough to make this comfortable in direct sun with 100 degree F ambient. My truck is three color NATO CARC and I have no cab shade because the HIMARS hatch precludes that option.

Never had any issue whatsoever with the PS pump interface. I remove the compressor with the PS pump attached to it and break the whole thing down on the bench if I'm going to be going in that far. I've done several of them now. Never even gave it a second thought using my method.

I keep mine halfway between low and full. That's about 2 quarts lower than "full"........ although now that I'm thinking about it, it's probably not nearly as much of an issue now with the ECO hubs. Original gearing had the engine taching so hard at 60 MPH it would vomit oil down the drivers...

Yeah they are CRAZY efficient. My Victron 5000W inverter is 94-95% efficient and it's not the latest tech. And running higher voltage affords you savings in terms of wire sizing. You need HUGE wires (relatively speaking) to run 40A @ 12v or 24v compared to 120v. Solar easily makes up the...

They are out there. And often sit on the market being passed up because they aren't "the best deal" in the eyes of the uneducated buyer. To someone that's new to this world it might seem obvious to buy the $20k 1997 truck with 6,000 miles on it vs. the $40k 2005 truck with 6,000 miles on it...

I can't disagree with that analysis. That is a pretty high rate of oil consumption. My C7 is definitely less than half that. I just topped it off the other day - about 2k miles on this oil change. Took a quart more or less. You do know not to fill them to the full mark right? That last two...

Naw that's the Bluetooth edition.

And those springs look different. Shinier. The o-rings are silicone or viton by the looks of them which should be good for higher thermals..... I'm not horrified by the look of that kit and the price point is attractive. Maybe they made improvements. :shrugs:

Yeah no change to the dipstick required in my experience. I'm sure the difference in coefficient of expansion between the two fluids is measurable but it's not significant enough to see with the naked eye would be my guess.

I know of an M1078 A1R in the Houston, TX area for $45k. PM me for details. Needs some work but has some upgrades. Lockers, highway gears, and a bunch of other stuff. The owner doesn't have time for tire kickers though.