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I read your first post again and can’t tell if the problem happens only when the air system has air or anytime. The links posted above are good tech to follow if it happens when there is air in the airpack system. If it happens when there is 0 psi in the air system. One suggestion is to adjust...

3 different answers are being given to a single question. Something to plug the hole such as my “Rubber cork” suggestion. A park similar to the OEM part from McMaster Carr. Followed by a OEM type part with a hole in it to be functional with a cable through it.

Rubber cork/plugs at Home Depot work as well.

Put a volt meter on the front battery with it running and see what voltage you get. Then go from there.

Great post! One of mine has gone to just hi speed lately. I will check into that plug. Thanks.

Here is where I got mine. They have the bigger tanks and hangers as well: https://www.lmctruck.com/fuel-system/gas-tanks-parts/csb-1973-91-gas-tank-and-components

Sometimes a new set of motor mounts are really needed. The stock ones can let the engine sag a large amount.

OK. So you are now getting some voltage to the exciter wire but definitely not all that could be getting there. Since you went from 0 to 7 volts by just moving the 2 plugs. Can you unplug them both again and do an Ohm check on that brown wire from end to end? It still could just be a frayed...

Is your resistor bypassed in the glow plug system? Was the 7 volts taken with the engine off and the plugs glowing? Together you would have at most 10 volts with the engine off and the plugs glowing. Since the only thing you did was the firewall plug and the alternator plug check. It seems...

Welcome to the fun. Yes the instrument connector in in the back of the gauge cluster. Treat it with respect and be very nice to it. The little copper tabs bend and break very easily. That by itself could be your problem source. Yes the firewall plug is at the rear of the fuse panel. GM put...

Going used and rebuilding is what I have done on all of my 24 volt trucks as well. Someone near you has one on a shelf In all likelihood. Make sure you get the proper support bracket for the style starter you end up with and I would also suggest new start bolts as well. The HMMWV -20 TM has...

You can. I don’t because I try to limit metal fasteners going into and out of aluminum if possible.

I have learned to remove the air filter, put a lawn chair cushion over it and the front of the engine and then lay on it. With a 1/4” drive ratchet with a 1/4” short socket on it. I can then work a hand under the back of the intake to the hose clamp and loosen it. The hose is also a 1/4” ID...

When I was rebuilding my Gasser M35 16 years ago I had just the cab bottom, a seat and a few other things assembled. I took it for a drive. Watching the rear axles move in every different direction caused me to worry as you did to start this thread. Do your inspection as suggested above. You...

I will try to answer in order asked. No, the engine does not idle up with the compressor engaged. However, it also doesn’t slow down. The injection pump has a low and high speed governor. The low speed governor pretty much maintains the idle speed regardless of the load on it. To a point. I...

Lets tackle the alternators separately. ALT 1 on the drivers side has an isolated ground wire but doesn’t need it since it is for the 12 volt truck system side of the fun. If you can touch a test light to it and it works while the test light is touching the case. Then I suggest checking the...

That is a 6.5 IP. Maybe your engine is a 6.5? Here is a video about what the numbers on the pump mean: It also shows the pink wire and green wire stock attachments. Depending on where you are in New Mexico or where the truck was. Advanced timing and higher idle might have been needed just...

Crank for 20-30 seconds, let it sit for 2-3 minutes, repeat. Here is a video about running an IP dry and priming it again:

The pink wire in a stock configuration is hot with 12 volts when the key is on. The green wire when stock goes to the sensor at the outside rear of the passenger head. That sensor has another wire that is hot anytime the key is on. The sensor is supposed to put power to the green wires...

So, you have heat, fuel and air. It should run. How fast is it turning over? The batteries have to be fully charged and the starter has to be spinning the engine fast. Otherwise it won’t get the heat from the compression stroke to run. My other thought is air in the fuel. Replacing the lift...