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That is for the key in buzzer for sure! I rip them out and don't put them back in...not needed. Did you get the lock out? I see the column in pieces. I got a ton of the turn signal switches still in the shiny wrap...got a steering wheel yet too...lol.
Looks like a sweet truck! So the oil light I'd start with the easiest thing I could get to which to me is the sensor itself on the back of the head. With the engine off the top where the wire bolts on should have 0 resistance however you want to test it...volt drop or ohms. If you jump that wire...
There should be some easy ones in the tm section in the sticky of this section. Don't use a civi harness pics...they won't be right.
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You don't need it. That's for radio interference of a rt524 that the military would use in the back. If you end up getting a radio then you can pop a new one on it.
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That's a nice set! Can't beat that they both run! If you're looking for a basic maintenance stuff there's a sticky in the genset section that has all the TM information and parts for oil and air filters numbers...plus everything parts wise. Are you looking for common problems? I think most...
You should pop this in parts wanted or hunt the radio section...I could only find the 9 foot one but maybe there's a 18 foot one out there or maybe an adapter to put 2 together.
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Yeah looks like one of the field coils burned up. I wouldn't use that part. Do you have another you could part out to use? I have seen a few of these nos on surplus sites but it isn't that cost effective. That type of damage comes from the diode pack or another internal short like the...
There are over 2 million views so far, so people are watching it! Might be good for you all that might have some of those in stock.
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Yes they have 2 interlocking nuts that hold the bearings in. It's good you got the hubs off! There are 35 spline axles out there. Getting the warn ones are very nice, I've got a few sets . Wonder if @cucvrus has any parts of the stock ones laying around you could fix the one you have and not...
I don't think you need anything but that kit for a Dana 60. Says 30 spline which I don't know if that's what is in there. You can pop one off and count just to make sure. I'd call and find out if you do need anything other than that kit. Just a touch curious why you want new ones.
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I just watched that! He got it in Chambersburg pa. I noticed his fuse mod wasn't done so I commented on it and told him to join here and get those parts figured out plus get his auto start kit too. I can't believe he got the fuel filter off that easy though!
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I've thought of making those lines out of steel with just a short piece of rubber hose on the end up top. Mine leached through the entire chunk from the top to the tank. We had crazy wind here last week had 35k people with no power. Some for 2 days.
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I use the basic military surplus one. I get them on eBay. They do just enough. Look for a battery cable end that unbolts but not from the battery if you can. Saves the battery terminals. Group 31s work fine BTW. Unhooking is absolutely ok.
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In theory there shouldn't be draw on the batteries when parked...black out switch off...but there are times when the alternator likes to do crazy stuff and pull a small draw and take out the batteries over a short period of time. You can pull the cables off but lead acid batteries discharge...
Yes it is and it does work and gives you a larger contact surface...but it can still weld...18 etc volts vs 24-29 volts is a massive jump in amps. The fix is keep your batteries charged...I run stock relay on all mine but also run the 6tm battery with a solar maintainer on the hood. I don't...
Yup...2 big wires with the 2 little ones. Just a point. Those melt as well if you're batteries are low in charge. Amps go up when volts drop and welding occurs. My 1009 had that with old batteries and I had to snap the wire off the 24 volt side to get the starter to stop. I put good batteries in...
No there's no filter in them stock at all but there's a bunch out there to fit a 3/8 hose. The booster has a check valve that's almost a pencil point that if it gets stuck can either give all the pressure or take it away.
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I'd test the 2 wire plug at the field before I'd jump wires to the battery. See what's there. That power steering is odd. Sounds like the hydro boost is bleeding off all the pressure. You put a filter on the return when you replaced everything? Could have some dirt in the check valve. I'd pop...
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