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You can kill the ground and bury a switch under the dash...I don't like switches on power sides...to much possibility of failure.
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That's great news that you got it all together! One thing I forgot is now that you have a fresh tank you might want to change the box fuel filter now too. Have it all in good shape at one time.
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There needs to be a solid ground on the motor. You can run a separate wire to ground or clean off the mounting points of paint and such. I do a wire up to the bus bar right above it off a mounting bolt for the motor. It needs a decent sized wire since it can pull 20 amps on high which will...
Oooppps!! I missed it had a connection on the end! Yeah mine have that too and are not hooked to anything. The other blue wire coming out of the box is the starter relay wire that kicks the starter on. 2 of mine had that clipped and had a ford starter relay botched in them. I removed all that...
I think there's a pair on marketplace by me if I remember right. Pop your search south a touch and see if they're still there.
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I have the original stuff but threw a small 4 ton bottle jack in there too with a 1/4 inch chunk of steel to put under it. 1 is none 2 is one I guess.
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Stock there's like roofing tar paper between the straps and tank. That stuff can fall apart when you take the old tank out. Might need some. I've used a inner tube as well.
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Just imagine trying to line up both brackets to the frame that have 4 bolts each to go in. With the straps tight it's extremely difficult to do that. So I leave them loose and move them around until all 8 bolts are in the tighten everything down. Makes it a 5 minute deal. I don't bother with a...
I'm fortunate as my local advance stocks the tank...with the discounts it is right at 80$. It's not a hard job since it's empty. One thing I suggest when you do go to bolt the mount brackets on is leave them loose so you can get the frame bolt holes to line up the tighten the tank staps down for...
I did that to one of mine as well. A small transfer pump fills up the passenger side pretty quick. I popped the roll over valve off the passenger side since I didn't want that blocking fuel if it ever got stuck.
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The third is for a civi that has a charcoal canister. 2 is all you really need. Just cap it off. That one's been changed at some point. Not a big deal at all. I use both lines that go all the way into the tank...the third one might come with a roll over valve in it or it's short...I cap that...
Not at all. The 4th outlet is for a diesel outlet that isn't for the engine like a heater. Not needed unless you want that. I've had to replace all the straps on the tanks I've done so it's nice to hear you won't have to! My one truck shows full until it hits 10 gallons then goes down from...
Should fit fine. You might need new straps. If the gage works I'd get a new sock for the pickup at the least. The tank will come with a new seal. Get a few feet of new fuel line.
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Sorry, I was meaning to save that as a draft but hit reply instead!! Was going to say, towing the 208, with the pump on the main shaft, in neutral, it should be able to be towed without taking the driveshafts off and keep lubricated. I think that makes it so the tailshaft of the trans won't...
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