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Got a pile of tires in. As soon as my bars show up the real fun begins...

Maybe you can help with another question. I have one of the WND-7-28 dual output PTO's here. Is getting rid of the rear accessory drive as simple as locating a plain rear cover and swapping it out? The parts manuals make it look that way.

Perfect. Thank you very much.

I was looking over my spare parts and had forgotten about this one. I'm trying to identify the rear facing PTO on this 3053A. The tag is missing so hopefully someone recognizes it. M900 series possibly?

That looks more like incomplete combustion or "wet stacking" but only on one cylinder. Bad/stuck stuck #6 injector possibly?

Finally got a Deuce size snatch block in yesterday. Bushing is in great shape. Tiny bit of scoring where the pulley rides against the side plate on one side. Looks like some grit or foreign material may have gotten down in there over the years. Pulley cleaned up nicely. Basic strip and repaint...

I could be way off here so bear with me. I was just staring at the design of the rear suspension. In my mind it seems that since the forward drive axle is ahead of the trunnion (pivot point) when it is being driven it would be trying to lift or climb ahead of the trunnion. Under torque it...

Thank Greg. It sounds like this would be considered a 5/8" block from what you've stated. If that's the case it would really be no better than the 5 ton block that I already have here. Just easier on the back. =) It sound like I need to keep hunting for a correct 1/2" wire rope block.

I didn't know. That's why I was asking. Thanks for the link.

I bumped an old thread before I realized that what I was reading was in the FMTV forum. Lets see if we can get more exposure here in my usual home. I'm trying to find information on the Warn 83086 snatch block. According to Warn this is the civilian replacement for the 78387 sold to the...

Kicking this one back up to the top rather than start another one. I'm trying to find information on the Warn 83086 (civilian replacement for the 78387) shown earlier in this thread. Is the sheave on this block for 1/2" WR or something larger? I've been told everything from 1/2" to 3/4" by...

Thanks. I think that having the correct clinching die will greatly reduce the needed force. I found an old steering wheel puller in my junk box. The fine threads on that should generate more than enough pressure. With some scrap steel and little creative welding I should be able to create a tool.

Modified bolt cutter won't work. Handles won't clear the cab so the door will still need to come off. I'll get a die coming and try something else. Might just use a fine thread bolt and make my own C-clamp style squeezer.

I tried a cobbled together c-clamp this morning and I just couldn't get the leverage to roll the flange. I'll order a die and try it again. Good thing I bought a whole bag of the rivets. =) Had an idea. I have a pair of junk 24" bolt cutters that a friend left here. I might be able to grind the...

I was looking at the manual tools. I guess you could pull the door and try to build something to support the rivet head.

When installing new front window channels in the door there is a single brass rivet at the top of each channel. How are owners clinching this rivet? I can find clinching tools but the cost is just not realistic when there are only two of these rivets per truck. I've tried the methods I've seen...

You're surely not missing anything coming this direction. Wife and I are hoping to jump the line this year and get out of this God forsaken state.

Beautiful work 7bdiver. Exceptionally clean final product that you ended up with. I see that you are in the Panhandle and davidb56 is up that direction too. I'm down in Spokane. Didn't realize that there were more of us in the area. I never seem to see Deuces on the road around here. Richard

Thanks for the feedback. A battery swap and box rebuild/overhaul are in my near future.

What did those set you back if you don't mind me asking?