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You have to disengage the clutch and then line up the bolt holes with the bolts. Then you can remove the clutch as an assembly. The nut at the end only takes apart the piston/cylinder assembly that engages and disengages. You should really read the TSM for it. The nuts you have removed allow...
I just replaced my regulator after troubleshooting the alternator. I posted about it as well as posted the Neihoff Alternator Troubleshooting PDF file. I highly recommend you test it based on the PDF, it will help you id the issue...
So today was the day to finish the light switch modifications started here https://steelsoldiers.com/threads/my-new-1992-m998-avenger.184818/post-2460891
In the thread there was some discussion about leaving certain circuits "powered up". My thought process was to use the "Run" circuit from...
First, thanks for the input. I appreciate all comments, suggestions, different points of view, etc.
I did check the charging but while working on something else (next post) I checked it again and took some pictures. It averages between 28.14 and 28.49 VDC on my DVOM. The analog meter still...
Yes and no.... gauges aren't always accurate but they mostly preform consistently. Also analog gauges show stuff digital gauges don't. A digital gauge samples and displays a mean average over time. A slight variation is often suppressed in a digital gauge. My digital VOM (Fluke) meter does...
Back on this post https://steelsoldiers.com/threads/my-new-1992-m998-avenger.184818/post-2481048 I mentioned when I was putting my truck up for the winter, the last mile of driving for the year, my generator went up on the charge voltage. Picture of the high reading in that post.
Today I...
If you remove the striker does the door seal up tight all the way around? If so, you could flip the striker or try the rear striker in the front. It would literally give you 4 different striker positions to choose from.
Nice truck. Congrats on the win! In one of the pictures I noticed a little damage on the RH cowl. My truck had the same part damaged and it was pretty easy to replace. Here is a link to how I did it. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/my-new-1992-m998-avenger.184818/post-2345715
There...
Not sure what a diode board is, the drawing doesn't show it. There is a resister board but that doesn't seem to be a part of the wiring but maybe to relocate the heater resister for clearance issues? Do you have a cannon connector on the back of the speedometer or a terminal strip?
Pulled the hose out today. Snapped a pic while I was under there. When I replaced all the hoses I also replace the metal cooling pipe as the original was all rusted. Found a "Stainless Steel" replacement and used it. I know stainless means less not stain proof. However there are many...
As underlined above, my truck started leaking as I was putting it away. Today I got under it to see where it was leaking from. This was a brand new hose, found the original seller and I believe it was NOS. Probably 30 year old surplus. EDIT: It was 18 year old surplus.
I went with 2 Walmart Everstart Maxx batteries. I was going to go with the $98 batteries but they were only 650 CCA. I upgraded to the $129 800 CCA group 34 batteries. 3 year free replacement and then 2 years pro rated is hard to beat. Made by Johnson Controls and they rate high on the good...
Here are the basics from my install in case the "May have to modify" from my post above has you worried.
This is literally all you have to connect on your own.
The rest of it is the included wiring harness, plug and play.
Then if you are adventurous there are other options you can use...
Quick 2 vs Quick 4 and who to buy it from. The USShift.com Quick 4 has more features and cost less if you buy it direct. IMO there is no reason to spend double for less of a product. If you are inclined to go with the Quick 2 then buying direct with a wiring harness will cost about $600 vs BD...
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