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The welded square on the inside seems way too excessive for the door considering the way most of the ones I've seen are made. The rest of the door structure isn't particularly stronger that would require that amount of reinforcement. That made me question if they weren't home made. BUT if you...
Has anyone seen rear half doors like this? They look relatively well made but not "factory", am I wrong?
Here's the link but i attached the pictures..... https://www.ebay.com/itm/144911444082
Not that I know what caused what you describe BUT if the oil return had any oil in the line or cavity and the engine started and that line vented the crankcase, crankcase pressure could push oil out of it much like what you describe.
Read up about how to drive it off road, it's not like 4 wheeling a jeep. The suspension doesn't articulate like a jeep or other 4WD trucks. And don't forget it's 7 feet wide and doesn't fit all the places a Jeep fits.
All ignition switches are not created equal. Cheap crap is just that. Here's a picture of what happens when cheap switches are used. The wiper is not made of copper. This is the key ignition switch that was installed in my HMMWV before I purchased it.
You can buy it new from AMG for 5100. I saw a used one for sale recently on a FB group for $800. Others for $2500. Basically it's all over the place. I've seen some unreasonably priced over $8K.
A co-worker, of a couple years, while filling out her time card once asked me "How many quarters are in an hour?" and I replied "4". She then said "No, there are 4 quarters in a dollar, how many in an hour?"
True story .... jus sayin.
After reading all that I have regarding this thread and IP's, here are the things I take away.
1, Stanadyne makes a LOT of IP's and they are used in many diesels. The majority of them use ETR for a reason.
2, In the PDF they show a manual override for the ETR
3, If I were ever so inclined to...
I don't think I would use that as the source 24v as it wouldn't have power if the ignition is off. I would think you would want power all the time to that switch, as Mogman said, direct from the battery. However that adds the need for a circuit breaker or fuse and if that trips, no power to...
Here's the part number Stanadyne 26922 but after a quick search, it seems to be a rare part since it isn't the standard way of doing it. Interestingly enough, you can find pictures of the part and it is the same solenoid mounted in reverse with a different lever on it. You could probably...
You would have to change the shut off circuit to be momentary or add a shut off button to apply power to shut it off. Does the alternator directly drive the ESO or would it stay running on strictly battery power?
Personally I think any quality manufacturing process is going to be equal. In my personal experience the cheap crap coming out of china is not a quality manufacturing process using quality components. A solenoids construction is pretty simple, copper wire coil, insulator, steel plunger and...
I actually looked at that one when I followed your link earlier and that one is cheap chinese crap. I did find some New OEM and some New "Made in Italy" replacement 24v 26387 solenoids on ebay between $37-95.
Thanks, I didn't recognize the M1009 number as Not a HMMWV. I don't know all the numbers of the vehicles and was assuming a HMMWV since this is the HMMWV forum. I didn't reread the thread to notice you mentioned it earlier. Sorry for the confusion.
If I understand the way it works correctly, we have a ETR not a ETSO (not to be confused with a ESO). My reading of it and checking for replacement parts indicated the part to be 26387 ETR.
ETR = Energize To Run
ETSO = Energize To Shut Off
ESO = Electrical Shut Off (both of the above)
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