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I'm in. The '72 M817 is on some cobbled together leftovers sure could use a proper set!

SF Bay Area. 80 is going to be more direct. That said I did my trip over Thanksgiving and got froze pretty hard taking a nap in western Wyoming. Got so cold I missed my alarm because my cel phone died. If it weren't for the seller making sure the ether start bottle was charged when I left I...

I did this with my M936A2: Battle Creek, MI to Felton, CA. It was an adventure really only had one issue and fixed it with some parts support. I hope you have more than the 5 days I took that was a long haul.

I have a bobbed deuce with ARB lockers front and rear, 395's and power steering. I run that thing through a lot of stuff (long as it'll fit). You need to: -Air down the tires to at least 25psi maybe lower or you'll rattle the truck apart -Add about 1500 pounds of ballast in the back to get...

You may or may not be wired over to the CTIS from the diagnostic port. I'm not familiar with LMTV trucks I just know my M936A2 wasn't wired for it. So I made an adapter/breakout cable I plug between the CTIS controller and the harness. I then use the dearborn adapter and plug adapter from the...

All the QRV's, the controller, the sensor, etc.. are VERY similar. The basic idea is trace the line back from the inside of the axle up to wherever it's mounted on the frame rail. The ones on my M936A2 are JIC fittings to the distribution block. Take the line off and plug in your "special" tool...

Good point. When I upgrade mine I'll install a bypass. I'll be in there anyways why not.

Because I'm working from a different truck. That said the systems are the same (or similar enough to not make a difference). Look at TM9-2320-272-24-2 section 3-462 "Hub air seal leak test". It's for the M939A2 series.

Make the tool from the TM and check all the hub seals. My bet is some are totally shot. I carry the test tool and a blank off cap on the truck so if one goes I can identify, blank it, run with 5/6 operation and hand manage the failed one. I recommend anybody that runs with CTIS operational do...

There's a small local shop near me that has all the hydraulic fittings and can make lines and whatnot. They are called "The Hose Shop". There will be one near you. Go make friends. You own an Army truck..... I went in with my pump and pictures with a tape measure in the pic. Also some of the...

Walbro is a great pump. Don't forget to check ebay for these. I scored two 6067 series (not marine rated) for under $50 each awhile ago. Right now there's a 6093 (7 psi, 43 gph) for $125 obo and a 6096 (4 psi, 33 gph) for $60. These are older pumps with the old numbers but both are marine rated...

-Yes the easiest will be to drill and tap the buggered ones. -Cut the gasket yourself. -Use a 24V marine rated pump mounted to the frame rail like a good Walbro they run about $225. Wire it to the original spot. You'll never have to deal with it again. Did mine this way and also ran parker push...

As soon as I run out of spare filters I'm buying a spin on setup. I hate that thing.

Those are solid trailers. I have one of those and an M1102. Why choose to modify this one instead of an M1102 which will be much closer to your end goal?

It shouldn't be able to draw air in there if the tank pump is working properly.

One possibility is that you not only have a small leak but you also have an under performing lift pump. Assuming that you are getting a bunch of small bubbles that collect into pockets when off (sure seems like that by your description); it's possible the injector pump is just over pumping the...

Yep fuel line leak. It's small so when it runs the bubbles are tiny and don't affect operation (very much). When you stop all the little bubbles gather together and air bind the system. Since it's still rather small you've been able to get away with some starting fluid to bump the cranking RPM...

Well you've chased the supply to the HH pretty well. If it was leaking you should have seen it. Now maybe test the output: try cracking an injector line and see if you get a good pulse out of it while cranking. I'm thinking you have some goo in there wreaking havoc.....

So..... once again: does your lift pump work? That's the pump in the tank. You should hear it come on when you switch on the power before starting/cranking. You should be able to flush the primary filter (passenger side, front area of motor) with just the power switched on it should squirt out...

You probably have a hub seal leak. First things first: build a test tool and check all the hub seals. The method to make the tool is in the TM's. I posted the one I made in a thread here somewhere...... With the schraeders in the stems the system won't work. It can't pop open the QRV's and...