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I went with the thin one. If in question you could call Baldwin.

While anything is possible one would think anything after the booster pump would leak fuel being under 60 psi of pressure. I would look at primary fuel filter then even rubber fuel hose on in tank.

If you are in deed looking I will ask my friend but about his but lets figure it is not cheap. Last time I saw his all the equipment was there and in good shape.

I felt dumb going into it but that is better then loosing your mind. As Steve showed in his post we are just feeling the 6 o clock gear for the min. of 10 to 20 thousands. He never said anything about the maximum lash. Also I only had to use four bolts to hold on cover to pin down the cross. As...

Have to agree Steve's ways was easy and not that much time lost maybe minutes not hours. For me a couple of minutes more to be sure I got my 10 / 20 minimum was worth it. I got lucky I guess in a way as I had a damage cover to cut and Steve also sold me 4 complete hub rebuild kits. I also bought...

Yea the threaded rod or cut off bolts heads for aliment of the pan make it easer. I also did the same thing for the oil cooler when I did those gaskets. Glad I was in better shape when I did the pan by myself. One hand did the bolts and one foot to hold the pan up till I got a couple of bolts...

As for the boots been to long to remember. One thing I do remember put some grease on / inside of the spindle bushing before you install / bolt the spindle back on the axle.

Mine doing fine but it was a # 6 in the pain of the butt scale when done alone.

I do not know about the M51 but if I remember the Deuce ran the same race's just the outer bearing had a bigger face on inner ring where the inner nut tightens up on.

My well is 100 feet from where the RV sits so I will just move it when I need well water. No I have a 30 amp 10 foot RV extension cord for the 120 hard wired in and the 240 has it's own utility outlet built into the face of the control box. No way to send 240 down 120 line. I just want to be...

Guess I asked the wrong question. I do not know who put this capacitor in the machine. Since I will only be using it at the well at 240 then disconnect and hook it to my RV 30 amp 120 volts. I will not be using both 240 and 120 at the same time or hooking it to the house. Seems like I would need...

Not a problem and yea talking is better than typing when there is a lot to cover. Sure you will trace it down one way or the other by going in steps. Feel free to call again if you need.

Ok want to have any extra small parts so I got a spare 35 amp breaker. My question is about the capacitor. I did a google and they are calling it a light ballast capacitor even has the resistor installed. Do I even need it or do I need another one with different values? The Gen. is running good...

He might be living by him self if the wife has any say.

Well once again getting ahead of our self could be something as simple as said that rubber hose on the in tank. As for filters yea they are more of a performance thing. All the Deuce head needs is just a little flow and very little pressure to just start / idle. If he does call we will start...

Some good thoughts but I like to keep things simple. Filters is what is most recommended first and injectors last. Then there is a horde of other things we can check after filters and before injectors. My thought is injectors last just incase we damage one of the injector ends we will need a new...

To much typing PM sent.

Did he just say it also came with fried rice? Do agree Another Ahab what this world could have been if someone did not want what someone else had. Warriors like war and the money to be made for somebody.

Also remove the nuts and put on the never-seize put your nuts back on and adjust. If you ever make it too Sunny Beach Fl. stop and grab two NOS windshields.