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Yep! Found some on eBay too https://www.ebay.com/itm/133967544582?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=KiiGGZxPRQu&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=mD49DVz5Rsu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

There are 16.5” rims that looks exactly like the stock 16” CUCV rims. I actually use one for as a spare for my Chevy ‘72 c20, which from the factory came with the 16.5” rims. The only problem now is the limited tire options that size.

Yeah I’m pretty sure it’s power steering fluid that is leaking. I did use DOT 5 for the brake fluid which from Napa has a purple color. The fluid I have leaking is clear and I’ve also had to top off the power steering reservoir. I didn’t use ATF. The leak is pretty significant, with the vehicle...

I just noticed that I’m getting a leak of power steering fluid from the brake booster right where it bolts to the master cylinder. I just replaced both of these with rebuilt parts a few months ago and have put maybe 15-20 miles on them. Did I just get a lemon of a rebuit booster? Or am I missing...

It’s been a great day out here in Pennsylvania. After 6 months of working on it I finally was able to drive the truck on the road. Before that I performed the pressure tests on the trans and confirmed with bowtie overdrives it was set properly. And then today performed the driving test and...

I gave bow tie overdrives a call to see what they recommend with regards to the adjustment. They stated the main thing is that the plunger needs to be fully in at full throttle. Since I’m not getting enough total travel I could set idle so it is already slightly depressed to achieve this...

Im finally getting close to the end of the trans swap and drivetrain rebuild (hopefully). I rebuilt the transfer case and reinstalled that. I procured I believe what is called a torque rod from another member here so installed that as well since my t-case had the bolts to accept it...

I finally got around to pulling apart the t case. It needed new seals but I did the bearings, chain, and thrust washers while it was apart as well. I got the USA Standard Gear ztbk208 rebuild kit and ztchhv025 chain. Overall it was fairly easy to do. I made sure to take alot of pics during...

I don’t know the oil cooler lines but the trans cooler lines are 1/2” -20 inverted flare. It’s more hassle/money but summit has a good selection of fitting adapters so if a cheap radiator has something different you should be able to make it work.

I will also need to do this mod as well once I go about installing a turbo. I’m interested to see how this pump works for you.

Made some pretty good progress on the swap so far. Changed out the flex plate and got the the new transmission bolted up to the motor. The gap between the torque converter and the flex plate was slightly too much, maybe 5/16 while ideally it is 3/16-1/4. So I ended up buying some precision shims...

Turns out my concern was unwarranted. Doing some research found out that this adapter setup built by Advance Adapters and also came across the spec sheets. The differences in transmission lengths from the 700r4 to the TH400 is about an inch, and the included case adapter is 1”. So overall the...

I am in the middle of swapping in a built 700r4. From other threads on here I was not expecting any impact to my total length and thus not needing to change any driveshaft lengths. A good write up with calcs shown here...

Over the weekend I pulled the oil pan and replaced that gasket. Not a difficult task but by the end I was a little sick of laying on the ground 😂 Hopefully that’s good for many years now. Also tonight I pulled out the transmission. The 4 of the 6 bolts fastening it to the engine were oddly...

Next up is the 700r4 install, t-case rebuild, and while I’m at it rear main seal/oil pan gasket. Like I mentioned in the beginning got the bow tie overdrives upgraded level 2 which will give me a nice overdrive gear. Pulled the t-case out the other night and this weekend will be working on the...

I finished up the bed and put that back on. Pounded out a few of the dents in the floor, one of the smaller short crossmembers between the wheels is bent a little still so eventually when I pull the bed off again to paint I’ll use a loader to flip it over and finish fixing that dent. Pounding...

Ah okay that makes sense. It does, thanks!

Why hasn’t anyone told me to check the TMs 🤣 Turns out the other wire is hot when braking. So I’m guessing that single yellow light is the normal blackout light and then red comes on when braking.

Actually that 6V might not be a correct reading, I can’t recreate it. Only get .6V now

I’m in the process of wiring new blackout lights in the rear bumper. The replacements I have don’t seem to indicate which wire is which, and neither did the ones previously installed for that matter. Checking the voltages on each, looks like they’re both hot, one with 12V and the other with 6V...