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OMG! that's unbelievable! barely a piece of sidewalk left!

The pumps are a little out of position, in 1 picture it seems to be almost 1/2 " away from the pushrod tube. Make all of them TOUCH the pushrod tube. The rotational position of the pump directly affects the metering pump pin's location relative to the pump body, which directly affects fuel pump...

Sounds like you're misunderstanding me. Rotate them Counter clockwise so the fuel line is touching the pushrod tube on the right side of the pump. Sounds like you are currently between the bolt and pushrod. It sounds like you are imagining this the other way, trying to touch the pushrod on the...

Yup... Typo! , I can't even spell "THE" correctly ;)

If the engine won't quite shut down when the fuel lever is fully forward, either the pumps are out of position ( should be rotated fully counter clockwise until fuel inlet hoses are touching the pushrod tubes ) or the fuel lever stop screw needs to be backed out a little bit, allowing the rack...

Looking at the engine TM it says PN 201-81200 which is also part of gasket kit PN 186-3210 or 186-6212.... which is the full engine gasket kit. Or here is a replacement: https://www.ebay.com/itm/391954084191 But not the same OEM orange silicone. To be honest, you could easily take an old one...

Get yourself a cheap $19 100A battery load tester from Harbor Freight, or just take the batteries to any DECENT auto parts store and have them load tested. If one is holding a surface charge only, the voltage will drop to nearly zero as soon as you apply the load.

Nothing up there besides the valve covers and the silicone O-rings around the shoulders of the "nuts" that hold them on..... that would leak oil. On the 2 valve cover nuts with fuel line clamps on them, make sure they put the O-ring into the recess in the valve cover, then the fuel line clamp...

Correct, external Aux fuel fitting is -5AN / 5/16 JIC

EXACTLY! I once had an 802 that acted similar, had new batteries in it and would crank ok from the dead crank switch, but just click and disengage from S1. Turned out the battery crossover wire had chaffed against the bottom corner of the block and pretty much killed the right hand battery.

First thing that comes to my mind is weak batteries, may sound odd to you, but I've seen similar results before when the batteries are weak and the cranking relay doesn't receive quite enough power to stay closed because the starter is sucking up all available amperage, resulting in the relay...

Going back to the fuel filters, The original filters were Fram C1125, which are 100% correct, but becoming difficult to locate. The Wix filters will work, but the hole in the center of the filter is smaller and requires you to either remove the 3 winged "centering" device that is pressed onto...

Let me look at home tonight, I have the entire radiator and end panel and I removed the tank at one point, so I would have taken the sleeve off when I removed the tank, perhaps it's still attached to the metal fill port.

Well.... don't count your blessings just yet, just sitting there you only have a static little oil with no pressure. Once it's running you have pressurized oil running into the filter as well as through several passages that connect the block to the cover including the remote oil pressure sensor...

Oh, I see... the small details make a big difference in diagnosing. It sounded to me like you put it all together, then found the spring from the front crank seal and also noticed a leak.... assumingly coming from the front cover based on your explanation. So your current problem is the side...

Without that spring around the crank seal it will definitely leak. That is most likely where your oil leak is coming from. If you're taking it apart anyway, why not replace the seal rather than put the spring back on an old seal? Throw in a new seal and a new cover gasket and be done with it!

I thought we went down this road already, but does the breaker still pop even with the fuel pumps unplugged? If not, one of the capacitors on your pumps is probably shorted out. Like Guy suggested, overcome 1 issue at a time, fix the switch, then move to the next issue.

Yup, sounds like a switch issue. Seeing that you were getting 24V from the switch to the cannon plugs originally, I would try cleaning the switch before condemning it. Get some good quality contact cleaner like Deoxit d5 , disconnect batteries and spray it into all the holes in the body of the...

So these are all 806B's, you may want to add that to your post's title.

Why would you need to replace rods? rods would never change, the bearing thickness changes when the crank is turned undersized.