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You'll be pleasantly surprised at how much of your house the 803 is going to power. You'll be able to wash and dry clothes on a hot summer day while you're chilling out with the AC cranking!

That circular spring is part of the front crank seal. It goes around the lip of the seal to keep a little pressure against the crank snout. Not sure if you replaced the crank seal or not. If so, hopefully if came out of the old seal. If not, take it apart and replace 78 ft/lbs is probably the...

Looks like its performing well. Typically you would want to start it at more like 25% load then progressive increase the load every 15-20 minutes or so and work your way up to 100%, burning off any carbon buildup in the process. Looks like you chose to just hit it with full load + right out of...

Well, that would be nice, but the TM shows 5 bolts and nothing else. I've replaced a couple cranks before and don't recall there being a dowel pin, but I could be wrong, only one way to tell for sure. If the crank ends up being damaged, I have a couple spares in my parts piles.

For $300 you can't go wrong! even if the crank is broken you're still like thousands ahead of the game!

Oops, I see you created a new thread for your machine. Like I mentioned in the other thread, It's not a single bolt. It's pretty much just like any other car engine. 5 bolts through the flywheel into the flange on the end of the crank. You must have one of the 3 issues listed above. Bolts...

I've used that exact brand of electric brake conversion on a trailer mounted MEP-005A with the air over hydraulic brake system, it couldn't have been easier to install! Fit it up on the back of the front cross member. it simply ties right into the existing hydraulic line coming off the original...

If you were measuring 24V at the cannon plug with the switch on and none of the pumps were running and then you put 24V to the pump directly from the battery and both pumps ran, then either the cannon plugs weren't making a connection or you have a bad connection inside the control box that is...

Also, be aware that if your fuel tank is more than about 3/4 full the Auxiliary pump will not run at all, assuming that your float switch is functional. The 2 others should have power in either switch position.

In the case of the machine I worked on previously, every single jumper was missing. No way that happened by accident. There are at least 2 different AM/VM switches that were used and the one I was dealing with had all internal jumpers ( I believe some others may have external metal bars bridging...

Don' take it apart yet, just probe the screws where you see the yellow bars to verify if they are connected internally. ( you can barely see an internal copper bar in the terminal if you know what you're looking for, but it's foolproof if you use your DMM. IF by chance you find 1 or more missing...

Scoobyshep types 10 seconds faster than me... :)

By cleaning the filter and blowing air through you have only done 10% of the job. You have to remove the funny clip, take out the check ball assembly and then knock out the plunger and spring assembly. 99% of the time if it's not clicking it's because the plunger is gummed up and unable to float...

Sorry, I'm talking about S6, the AM/VM selector switch. any missing or incorrect connections, as well as bad connections inside the switch ( dirt corrosion etc ) can cause inoperable and / or incorrect readings on the load meter, as well as false overload warning lights. The yellow lines show...

Or perhaps it really does only have 45 hours on it.... because no one ever used it, because it's been problematic since day 1, so it sat around doing nothing for years! Everyone wants the super low hour machines, but I'll take something that has been used a bit and proven over time over the one...

Sorry to back track, but has the load meter ever worked for you? If not, you should also check all of the internal jumper connections on your switch. At one point I worked on a 802 that appeared to have the correct switch installed but it turned out that NONE of the internal jumpers were...

If it hasn't been run in a while and you have 24V at the pumps as Scoobyshep mentioned, the internals of the pumps are surely gummed up and stuck. They are 99% of the time pretty easy to disassemble clean and be good to go again. If by chance you still have issues I usually have rebuilt pumps...

Even when you know what you're doing mistakes still happen! I recently tested an AC reconnect box from an 003 I was selling to a fellow member. figured easiest way was to hook it up to my 003 I use for backup power which is connected to my shop and house. 1/2 way through hooking up the power...

Looks good, but I have to say anything that can gravity drain ( leak ) always scares me for some reason. Hopefully this is somewhere close that you see it daily. Although simply keeping the valve closed when not is use should eliminate 99% chances of failure. Only other thing I'd keep an eye on...

With 6400 hours on it, it looks good, I can still see cross hatch marks in the cylinder wall. Out of curiosity, I personally would pull off a couple rod caps and see what the bearing in the top half of the rod looked like as far as wear. I'd also remove the oil pump pressure relief tube and...