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So I decided to keep the alarm functional. I got rid of the factory switch and used a Horton 993607. The factory switch is 215° and the one I got is 205. My thermostat is 180 and fan switch is 190 so 205 is definitely hot enough to be abnormal. Hopefully it will never serve any purpose but I’m...
Yeah there’s no info on it anywhere that I can find. The only reason I don’t want to delete mine is because my truck got hot one time and the alarm went off a good 30 seconds before the gauge reacted. Not sure if it was just the old, slow gauge or the few inches difference in location
Any idea why? I can’t find the mwo but I may just not know where to look. If I can’t find the correct switch I guess I’ll just get a generic one. I can’t see any reason to delete it…
There is no electric fuel pump and I’m not sure what you mean by a power brake light.
I would start by screwing in the fuel shut off override. If it starts, you either have a bad fuel shut off solenoid or you’re losing power going to it.
Synchronized transmissions should be shifted with the clutch disengaged. Doesn’t matter if it’s an m35 or a Mazda Miata. You can play super trucker if you want but it does cause cumulative damage unless you are 100% perfect every time. But you won’t be and the synchros will pick up the slack so...
I finished installing Jake brakes and 25% over injectors on Monday. I’ve only drove it about 10 miles but it’s fun making all that noise. I got a short video with the jakes on medium. It slows down too fast on high to get a good video at that speed...
It’s easy to add a turbo with oem parts that are readily available either new or in junk yards. The lack of piston squirters is the biggest reason to add a turbo as it will significantly lower egts. For some reason a lot of people have that backwards. In a diesel more air=lower temps. You should...
You must have. It’s been a while now.
https://steelsoldiers.com/threads/m923-13-speed-swap.196185/
I’m not really sure where they’re actually supposed to go but I put mine toward the passenger side near the grab handle. I know it would clear the shifter/ctis but I’m not sure on the winch...
Hemtt up front and 5 ton in the back is ideal imo. Hemtt wheels in the rear will make the rear narrower. I’d bet good money that any configuration you choose will be just fine as far as not messing anything up.
I'd blame whoever did the rebuild. It should have been good as new after that. Super easy to source the parts and do it yourself. I actually did a small write up on it a while back but your bearings will be different, so just need to get them out and find the right ones for yours.
If you're planning on rustoleum rusty metal primer, try a small spot first. I tried it on some rusty metal a while back and it was terrible. I had to clean it off and start over. I have used permatex rust treatment spray then normal primer/paint and it seems to work much better.
The only thing I would do differently is get a little more leverage. I’m planning on fixing that this winter.
I used 3/4 bar stock for everything. It’s very solid feeling and doesn’t flex at all. I would be afraid to try anything smaller but I see no need to go bigger.
The piece on the floor...
Admittedly, I know absolutely nothing about turbine oil. You’re saying it won’t burn? I’m gonna say it’s EXTREMELY unlikely, even if it separates itself from the fuel and doesn’t burn, that it would raise compression any appreciable amount and borderline impossible for that to cause a hydro lock.
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