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Where do you have that red wire running to from T12 to l2?

Big lead stays, add another between 2 and 12

There is such thing as reasonable paranoia. At the end of the day it's your piece of equipment and you have to make the call whether you want to do it or not

These are before the circuit breaker, so it would happen right after field flash Im a tad suspicious of the other exciter lead on t9. it should work, the t12 move definitely need to happen because its no longer neutral

Looking at the drawings and yes these 2 moves need to happen, first is for the exciter, the other is the convinence outlet, overvolt relay and part of load measuring. This is also the time where i add the disclaimer that with any modification comes risk and you need to be aware there is a non...

Last one I did instead of cutting it short I moved other wires to electrically make the change

Me a little bit and I'll look for the schematics and see what I can figure out

Yes. Those are the ones I'm referring to. The instrumentation leads and avr sense are fed from the back of the recon board

More importantly the AVR

I am no stranger to this modification and I can tell you for sure on a 004 and 005 there's 3 control wires that need to move otherwise the AVR won't react correctly.

There's more to it than that.

Okay if you're up for a little homework, very carefully take the voltage reconnection board apart from its mount and on all 12 of the studs tell me exactly which wire is on what each wire should have a number stamped on it. From that point I'll help you go through the schematics and figure out...

No actually it's better at that point to do the conversion because it basically splits the voltage between two legs and places a current through all windings.

You can. The problem is if you put a heavy load on say l1 and l3 but no load on l2 it's not exactly good for the head not to mention your just wasting fuel at that point

That makes it a little bit more difficult because ideally you need to have a load on all three legs

Is your house and shop fed separately?

The way these are tapped you have three outputs l1 l2 l3 each one of them is 120 volts to l0 and in between each one of them l1 l2 l3 would be 208 volt

With those voltages I would guess that you are wye tapped in your service and it wouldn't surprise me if you could adjust the generator up to put out 125 and 219. Or close enough. What you do want to do is make sure you have all three outputs loaded somewhat the last thing you want to do is...

Most 220 devices are tolerant of 208. You could split them up