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Ok Thank you Will be later today or tomorrow before I can do that. Storm coming and getting close with lighting not far. I will definitely do it. If it is the S7, at least a new one is inbound.

Absolutely I’m learning the best I can Experience matters and is very appreciated!! Yes, I’ve spent a bit on extra parts, but they will not go to waste. Especially with a possible second machine.

K3-X2 to TB4-3 did nothing. TB4-3 to TB4-12 cranked and started

Ok I will check My head hurts

Ok Did the first jumper sequence and no luck The second one, K3-X2 to TB4-12, worked Cranks and starts right up. I can’t follow the schematic well enough to know why this worked.

Looking behind the control panel this morning to make sure I’m clear exactly where to connect jumper wire, I noticed this. Doesn’t appear to have rubbed completely through, but it was getting there. I placed a 1/8” thick piece of rubber underneath it for now until I properly repair it with...

WOW That’s quite the post. Tons of great information. Thank you I jumped on eBay and found a brand new Eaton exact replacement.

Hold the phone Unit nice and hot and STILL doing it. Both relays have power to them but power not going to top post when switch turned to crank. I’m at a loss for now. Time for a drink I still think relay was bad since it’s not working for preheating now. I can jump the K 3 and engine will...

I’m SO glad it wasn’t the S7 switch. I was really dreading the possibility of having to replace that. Edit: Found a NOS one, Eaton brand. MS24166-D1 They’re Not cheap. Mostly used in Aviation so that explains the price.

Relay is bad Took apart and cleaned contacts. Same issue. Swapped with K2 relay and problem followed to the preheat circuit. Took cover off relay and applied power. Bad relay gets power. But doesn’t move at all. Time to go shopping Guess the heat was just a coincidence. Gonna run it for a...

Looks fine inside Will clean contacts up and reinstall.

FOUND IT!!! Traced the wire to the rear of control panel. The K3 Crank Solenoid is bad. K2 is the preheat solenoid. The bottom wire of K3 is always hot with battery voltage. Once you switch the selector to the crank position, the top wire is (supposed) energized and sends power to the starter...

That’s exactly what I’m doing right now. Cleaned off the outside of the stainless steel battery hold downs. They should be here Wednesday.

Ok Cleaned S7 contacts and made no difference. Hooked up multimeter to starter solenoid for first start. All went normal and solenoid received 24v for starting. Ran unit for about 45 minutes. Nice and cool this morning so it took a bit to get hot. Shutdown engine and immediately tried...

The wing nut and stud are “one”. Very easy to get in and out. Cover not so much. Cleaned contacts with fine sandpaper and no dirt or debris came off on paper.

You ought to see my spare parts collection for my CUCVs. Yea The struggle is real……. I added more zip ties to the wiring. Also applied rust killer to the trailer. Lots of NOS parts arriving Tuesday.

I will check again tomorrow. Think my sequence in checking was wrong. I’ll look at the TM in the morning. Appreciate the guidance

Will do Thanks

The wing nut isn't the issue. The threaded rod behind it is, in the picture. The contacts "looked" clean, but honestly I didn't really check beyond a visual look. Will use emery cloth tomorrow to clean them

So still can’t get cover off without messing with injection pump. Verified before initial start this morning that S7 contacts are touching and pins on cannon plug have continuity. Ran unit for an hour under a small 45% load. She’s smoking a bit under load so it definitely needs the throat...