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Before I put the seal kits into my boom cylinders it just worked. I would bring it up and as soon as it started to slow down I would just reverse direction and it would move in position. Now it seems to stop moving toward me sooner than it did before, and reversing direction just sends it back...

Well Like I said before, since my SEE is the only SEE I have seen I can only guess by the pictures in the TMs and what I see on my SEE so to speak. Enough double talk. When I look at the connections to the front glad hands it looks exactly like the diagram above. The lines from both glad...

I replaced the seals on my boom cylinders and now I can't get the boom to latch using the last second direction reversal to get it over center. I was able to get it to latch using the stabilizer pushing on the bucket, but I am not even close with the correct technique. Any ideas as to what...

I got the seals replaced in the two boom cylinders and replaced the rod and seals on the bucket cylinder. It was not such a bad job, the hardest part was just wrangling the cylinders around by myself. They are pretty heavy and breaking the piston bolts loose took some doing. 600 ft-lbs spec and...

I just stumbled on this article, nothing new, but you may find it helpful. It is for a Case 580 back hoe so pretty relevant. https://axleaddict.com/commercial-vehicles/How-To-Rebuild-Or-Repair-Tractor-Backhoe-Hydraulic-Cylinders

Over the weekend I got the bucket cylinder off and the gland nut removed. Do your self a favor and make sure you remove the 1/8" locking screw before you put any pressure on it. Mine was under the cylinder and I did not find it until it was too late. The head of the screw snapped off, I had to...

I would rather not have used the JB Weld. The problem was the fit of the boots. For sure the drag link would not work with out the JB Weld, and it worked well with it. The ideal would have been a base of about 50 mm that would have fit inside the cup ring but I used what I was available. The JB...

This may be a case of the blind leading the blind, but I am currently in the process of replacing the bucket rod, and the seals on the right boom cylinder. I have been breaking the gland nut free while the cylinder is still attached. You might want to get a big spanner wrench. Here is the link...

In case you missed the new thread, I posted about adding dust covers on to my ball joints here. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?187040-After-market-dust-covers-and-grease-zerks-on-Drag-Link-and-Tie-Rod-ball-joints&p=2203747&viewfull=1#post2203747

The dust covers on my SEE were toast when I got it, and I believe this is a common condition. The cost of the dust covers is nominal, but to replace the ball joint is not cheap. The actual ball joints in my case are in great shape, but will not remain that way without fixing this. The problem...

Well since mine is the only SEE I have ever seen, I don't know for sure what is there and what is missing except by diagrams in the manuals. Looking at that diagram, it does not look like there is a spot to connect the line going to the back to charge the system. The high level diagram...

The good news is the mog is again building air pressure. The bad news is that other than replacing the head gasket on the compressor (which I am no longer confident was the issue), I changed nothing and I am confident that there are other issues. Perhaps it is just my reluctance for taking yes...

I have located a supplier in Germany that sells the full kit (head gasket, intake and output valve, plus a gasket that fits between piston liner and the block ( this last gasket is not part of the original kit but seems like a good addition). The costs are in Euro's but the kit it self is < 18...

Thanks Speedwoble, I think I have located the correct rod. I may have been able to find or have it manufactured cheaper but at least I am not going to have to ship a G33162 back.

OK, Still not convinced it is worth it personally because I don't own another vehicle that has air brakes, so probably not likely to get towed. As far as charging the system, If I put the female connector on in place of the factory one which is an idea I like I could do the same thing with a...

Thanks Joe I was intending to do something similar with some fine grit sand paper and steel wool. Since you have been through it, does the smaller thickness gasket go against the block?

Perhaps it is not that expensive or that much trouble, and if I did not have a viable alternative I might do that, but for sure it is more expensive and bother than tapping my old drain valve and screwing in a quick connect plug. The other consideration is that I am not sure how much is missing...

As an alternative, maybe I can just use the pressure regulator on the compressor to bring the pressure up in 20 PSI increments. rather than hit it with 100 PSI all at once. It does not seem like I will be going backward through the system for very many components, All the schematic shows up...

Seems like a lot of trouble / expense for no benefit. I have a different scheme for pressurizing the system to check for leaks that I will try after I get the pump back together. I bought a couple of the tank drain valves from EI a while back, because they were leaky. Not being one to throw...

I looked at the lines coming off the front glad hands and there is no line connecting the valve to the rest of the system. So the glad hand can't supply air to the system to diagnose a leak or blockage, but there is no blockage between the pump and the tank. So I think the pump is the most...