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The point was more that the M939 series are equipped with spring brakes so in the event of no air the mechanical spring brakes apply. I can't think of any situation in the M939 series where you wouldn't have breaks unless someone caged the brakes. That is one of the biggest benefits of the...
That would only really apply to M54 and M809 series trucks which would have a limited breaking with no air. The M939 series trucks have spring breaks so loss of air will apply the spring brakes. You won't be careening down the highway with no breaking ability.
The fact of the matter is...
If anyone ever intend to drive through water up to the windshield I suggest you check your air filter canister and intake piping for leaks. I would say at least 50% of the trucks would have a decent sized water leak in the piping at that level of water which will kill the engine before anything...
I've had the brakes fail. If they were working fine but have a line ruptured or something to that effect you will usually have two pumps of minimal breaking. Use them wisely and downshift while applying the E break. This is a great reason to check your break fluid level before every trip! If...
In addition to what the other guys have mentioned the 1100's absolutely suck on the steer axle in soft ground. If you're loaded, you feel like you're going to roll the 1100 off the rim or sink it to the axle in anything that isn't pavement or packed gravel. 1200's or 395's are probably the...
The point everyone is trying to get across is don't use standard plumbing store stuff. Use the proper DOT spec stuff. The DOT stamp doesn't mean DOT approved, it mean it's built to meet minimum DOT standards for that type of part. No reason to get all fired up.
My truck had a plumbing store...
16.00 are great for stability and ride smooth. They are much better than the 11.00's when I made the swap on my A0. I swapped 14's to 16's on my A2 and same result, more stable and ride smooth. I tow big with my A2 and no complaints or issues.
I have 14.00's on my 817 dump and hate them...
The two landscape blocks are probably OK but I personally would not trust them. It would be better if you had a piece of wood sandwiched between them and the asphalt, each other and the Jack. The cinderblock on its side is a definite no-no. That thing is just waiting to crumble and fall to pieces.
I bet someone on here works for a manufacturing company that works with silicone. It would be nice to have a really thick heavy duty set of boots. Silicone is very durable and should last a long time in this application if it was thick enough and the right formula.
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Hoping Will will see this. Curious how to adjust fuel on this one, throttle shaft doesn't have the tamper proof ball. This one looks solid.
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I know, I've been watching too. I guarantee you there's a warehouse full of them somewhere. It's the government, they can waste money better than anybody. They probably have hundreds just sitting and rusting away until they get sold in a scrap lot.
Any chance your guy could make two of...
I didn't read the whole thread but any chance your supply line is collapsing and cutting off the fuel flow while you drive?
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It's possible you damaged something running that water/crud/diesel mix through it. I can't imagine your PT pump and injectors were happy about running down the road at full throttle with that mix. How did the pt pump screen look?
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Is there an NSN for the speedo/tach mount on these? I'd love to move my speedometer and tach to a more visible location.
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In 3rd gear even with something slightly dragging you should have no problem hitting 2100+. This sounds more and more like an engine issue. When you rev, do the RPMs drop back down fast? If it floats before it comes back down your sucking air which would cause your reduced power issue.
Is...
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