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2Insane, how did you determine your motors were running hot in the rear? Did you take measurements?

I use a paint pen, mark the socket, place the socket on the bolt, mark the head 90 degrees from the socket mark, then hammer the bolt home (I do the heads with impact wrenches on the Cat 3500 series engines).

The GM service manual mentions cleaning and applying sealant to the bolt threads which implies reusable. I think the confusion comes from this other paragraph. GM wanted the bolts replaced with a new longer bolt, not because the bolts are TTY.

I have honestly seen zero proof that ARP studs perform better than TTY bolts. If the bolts are not TTY then studs may perform better. Has anyone confirmed that 6.2 head bolts are actually TTY? Torque angle and TTY are not synonymous. I believe the head bolts on the 6.2 are torque angle and not...

The pre-cups are supposed to be a light press fit. I have seen a center punch used to improve the fit of the cup. Pick two spots outside of the fire ring of the head gasket just outside of the precup bore and mark two indentations with the center punch. This will retain the precup.

I've reused head bolts successfully on the 6.2 engines. The key is renewing the sealant on the threads and the lubricant under the head.

Mine did and I'm very confident that it was original.

I saw the title and was going on say something about the flyback diode and now realize that is unnecessary.

The intake bolts should not have sealant. I do see silicone on the water manifold gaskets which should not be there. The fuel supply hose is certainly not original. The manifold gaskets are marked like Fel-Pro but the don't have the plastic locating pins on the ends.

The hardest part about doing the injection pump is getting the intake manifold bolts out. They're the double ended ones and if the bolt breaks loose before the but does you have to figure out how to get a wrench under th fuel like bracket. I make sure to torque them during assembly and then a...

You're symptoms are exactly what happened to mine. It ran that way for a few thousand miles and then started getting worse quickly it blew out the water passage at the end of the head gasket, that's where almost all of these go. Option 2 is a crack between valves. I have seen these pinned. I...

The doors are part of the duct. If they're open you're disrupting the airflow. The set does not radiate heat through the doors in any meaningful way.

There pumps fail primarily in two ways. They leak fuel at the throttle shaft or they won't start when pump is hot. Losing power is a fuel starvation issue. How is your fuel filter?

No, they connect to the original oil cooler pipes by oil sample valve.

When I made oil cooler hoses I believe I used this fitting. The compatible hose is expensive, 221FR. I had some scrap which helped ease the pain. The engine side is NPT thread so I suggest using adapters to JIC flare.

Make sure you use Viton o-rings if you want them to last.

That amount of scratching on the skirt is definitely not normal for a professionally built engine but it is also not anything that would cause a failure. I believe you are correct that it's caused by debris from the failure.

The wrist pin bosses are pulled out of the bottom of the piston. That indicates to me that it failed under tension. We usually see this when a piston seizes. I see no indication of heat under the crown and the cylinder walls have no scuffing to indicate overheating. I don't think this engine...

As a fleet operator with nearly 2 million hours of diesel engine operating experience, just drive your engines. You want to warm them up quickly.

If you want a black undercoating check out Daubert Nox-Rust 121B. I believe it's the same product GM is using to coat the frames on some of their heavy duty trucks. It's well priced. It can be applied over existing coatings and rust. https://petroleumservicecompany.com/nox-rust-x-121-black/