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Also fuel fired flame cold start heater....

Yes, I agree with that. Eliminating yet another potential hole in in your one-circuit brake system is a good plan. FWIW, you can use any aftermarket air pressure brake switch; the plumbing is simple and the electric connection from the hydraulic switch gets re-used. You will see that the...

Yes, it is in the TM. I know there is a table in the engine rebuild TM. Sent from my SM-G991W using Tapatalk

I got bitten by the "but I just replaced these" a couple of times. Who knows...several fillups and hours of vibration might have shaken some crud loose you didn't even know you had in there. I strongly agree with re-visiting the basic culprits before tearing into the complex stuff! Sent from...

Here are three threads that should give you more ideas: -the air pack can blow air through the vent line and cause what you describe; a leaking cup/seal or incorrectly assembled air pack can cause this - there is a link to other parts of the brake system, i.e. non-functional trailer glad hands...

Try the pedal without having air pressure. Does it still spray? Unhook the vent line, get air pressure and try again? Does it spray now? Pull the boot back at the front of the master cylinder. Does fluid come out?

FWIW, I had to have mine appraised for insurance purposes a few weeks ago. A good excuse for a road trip to the appraiser's office a couple hours away. You can read about mine in the signature. It has no rust and decent paint, is a w/w/ with drop sides and 11.00R20 on Canadian combat rims...

The position of the cab heater is awkward and impedes access to the side of the engine. The different mounting arrangements IMHO are reflections of attempts to make it a little less bad. The system is closed, with a little copper/brass heat exchanger (mini radiator) in the box and it does not...

Not meaning to detract from your very clear question - as someone who works with winches regularly, I suggest that for use on a trailer, any of the commercial solutions (which you can easily get up to the 17,500 or even 19,000 lbs rating) is a better choice than a mechanical truck winch off a...

I'm the Canadian guy that stopped by your place...before COVID....and your pipe tobacco smell reminds me of my late dad. Glad you are back! Sent from my SM-G991W using Tapatalk

I cut one out of a tire inner tube. Works fine.

Too funny! I had the same experience when I changed mine...tried to feel the fourth bolt...couldn't...took gloves off...still nothing...then felt the hole...ahaaaa! I also did not replace it.

As a related and totally thread-highjacking rant, I find it increasingly difficult next to impossible to source the automotive fine thread bolts and nuts I need for the truck. Everyone around here only seems to stock coarse thread and I do not really want to order 200 of every single frigging...

I just did spark plugs and coils on a 996. It was super easy with my three child-sized hands, foot-long fingers and jointless bendability. Grrrrrrrrr.

Maybe this thread helps: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/my-master-cylinder-rebuild-with-photos.84487/

Not even a "what DID I do" but "what I have to do" list....... - drove Lola about 200km to get her appraised (for insurance purposes) - the oil leak out of the bell housing raised its ugly head when she got really warm. She barfs a good half quart on shutdown and a has few drops when running...

You are absolutely right - no bead locks, so the deflated tire will pop off with the axle weight on it. I used all new 20 in O-rings between the rim halves. The 20 nuts holding the rim halves together are on 3/4 in studs and torque is ridiculous; I just use my 3/4 Milwaukee Fuel18 and cinch them...

I have random leakers on my truck. 11R20.00 on Canadian combat rims (similar to A3 rims). They hold air seemingly fine for a whole season. Then truck goes into storage. Almost guaranteed, a random tire is off the bead after 4 months. A few days ago, I noticed one rear tire off the rim. It had...

In the vicinity of where the data plate should be, there should/could be a clearly visible "TD" cast into the block. That would give an indication whether the engine is an older model or a newer "Thick Deck" block. As to who made it etc. - no dice without a data plate. There are usually some...

I have a soft spot for dump trucks w/w. They are cool.