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Apologies, missed that. Thought we were talking Deuce. Sent from my SM-G991W using Tapatalk

I agree, however I have seen here that a couple members bought hardtops that had what appeared to be the correct data plate (stating 2.5 ton and 5 ton) but ended up being hardtops that were too large (not sure what they were for, 900 series or early LMTV air drop variants, no idea), so I...

Your Deuce cab measures 70 at the back and 63 at the windshield . A 900 series hardtop will be wayyy out of those measurements and around 10 inches too wide at the windshield. With a grain of salt (verify!) the number on the hard top should be NSN 2540-01-096-5023

Yes, M800 series and M35 have the same cab dimensions. Hard top will fit.

IF (big if) this is a Deuce carcass that has power steering and a Cummins, I'd consider repurposing that whole drive train, not only the power steering. The cheapest conversion/upgrade is the one where someone else has already gone through all the pain and money to make it functional. Sent...

Bittersweet, for sure. At least the museum is likely to take care of the trucks as opposed to a random buyer with plans to "improve" them into rock-climbing contraptions or mud bog rigs.

I started off with VW Beetles that had oil bath filters. I guess they "worked" to some extent because there was indeed sludge forming in them but I was always questioning how well they actually kept particles out of the intake. Back then, an engine would not be expected to run 250k km or miles...

I wonder if something in the old intake collapsed under load to make it suffocate so badly. The new air cleaner setup looks like you harnessed a 500hp beast under that hood! :)

With fording kit! You can drive into 1.5m deep water and cool off without leaving the vehicle! ;-)

@pitpawten If you have not done so, yet, having the cooling system filled with water would be the time to remove the thermostat, pop a couple of Cascade capsules into the radiator and drive the truck up to operating temp for a good 20-30 minutes. Let cool down, then pop the lower rad hose off...

I have a soft spot for the M108 and yours starts to look really nice!

Glad to hear that you are back up and running!

Unlocking the hubs helps a great deal with wear and tear in the front axle shaft area as well. The military solution of permanently locked in hubs , while soldier B proof, is not the most equipment-friendly.

The extra grease lubricates the thrust washers and contact surfaces of the axle shaft. They do not seem to enjoy running dry. Sent from my SM-G991W using Tapatalk

The suspense is killing me! lol

If your engine block is a "TD" casting, the bolts should all be tightened to the higher specs. One reason for re-designing the block and going to the "thick deck" was that the engines were blowing head gaskets like they were going out of style. The clamping force provided by the head studs was...

Any news? Did you get it fired up?

There is a ball valve in the plumbing hidden behind the bumperette. Verify that this valve is on. They can get very stiff due to non-use. Also, the rubber seal on the gladhand can become hard. Every truck stop carries replacement seals.

The "Service" gladhand pressurizes when the service brakes are activated (i.e. the brake pedal is depressed), the "emergency" gladhand delivers air all the time.

You are better off re-using the rubber valve cover gaskets. They are re-usable by design, maybe clean gently and spray with rubber revival compound of your choice. The valve covers need not be ape tight; just enough for the thick rubber gasket to seal. I would stay away from RTV for the valve...