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https://www.otctools.com/sites/default/files/517913_rev_c.pdf the link above is a PDF of an OTC version of the tool that may assist with how to hook it up if you want to give it a try

the LBCD , Load and battery control device, basically its a diode box with capacitors, it protects via diodes from reverse polarity(hooking battery up backwards) it also senses system/battery voltage. should the battery voltage drop below a certain value during engine operation it will send a...

the N1387, the 210 amp HUMMWV ALT at engine idle(700-800RPM) is like 2100-2400 alternator RPM so it'll give 160 amps there(give or take) and at 1200 engine RPM that's 3600 alternator RPM it'll give just below 200 amps. at 3000 engine RPM the Alt will be at 6000 rpm and that's where the rating of...

https://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG0017B_uid882013200562.pdf thats the troubleshooting guide for the 200 amp https://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG0019A_uid12172009217332.pdf that's the guide for the 210 amp For the AC unit(air conditioner) when possible I...

the Niehoff Regulator is actually a little smarter in that when it get Power from its harness and IGN signal from the red terminal it waits till it sees an certain RPM from the alternator phase signal before it powers up the field coil. its call a soft start on some Niehoff units it also ramps...

see page 2 description of operation in the N1225 TG https://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG0017B_uid882013200562.pdf so 200 28v no 14v load and less than 200 28v with 50A of 14v(basically the 14v robs the 28V side) as a note the 12v/14v taps the come out of the regulator their made...

welcome to the fun of electrical diagnostics, https://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG0017B_uid882013200562.pdf that is the link to the trouble shooting guide of the model alternator you have, https://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/II225A_uid6920141104561.pdf this is...

if its the hole in the middle of the "black tube" center section then yes that is a 3/8 -16 thread for the lifting eyes, note be very careful as the wire(copper in color) in the hole is a stator phase lead and if you hit it, it may cause a short, also you may want to leave it open for airflow/...

Hey kestrelnh, if it doesn’t have a name plate it isn’t a N3106 Niehoff part it is a clone the southern automotive parts aren’t Niehoff they are clones so it’s a bit of a gamble if it’ll work with the original unit it may very well work but it’s not an original just a clone of unknown origins

Hey Chief Day, you might want to start a new thread with your issues as this thread has a lot in it that way you will get clear questions and answers, for your radio static it is common to have a little to much AC in the DC to cause this with a MultiMeter on AC volts see what is at the 12v alt...

here are a couple of threads that discuss this already I suggest using the search on forum to look any more threads for more info if needed https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=221530 https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?152465-M998-60-Amp-to-200-Amp-Alt-upgrade/page2

so you think they are 6 volt because that's what a MultiMeter said? or are they marked 6 volt? either way they are very low on charge and your best bet will be to put them on a battery charger and then see if you can load test each individually( once fully charged take them in your running...

yes it does, so instead on needing a separate battery equalizer( like the Vanner products) the Alternator does it all. if you had a single voltage output alternator and wanted to tap off for 14v loads you would need to "equalize the system" or run a separate battery for the 14v loads. this is...

hey Coachgeo no actually, the way it works or how it should work is loads are drawn from batteries and the Alt works to replenish this. think of it as Loads are the engine(they use fuel), batteries the fuel tank(they supply the fuel, and the alternator is the gas station(where you spend an arm...

"Do I get the 100+ amps with just one leg or do I just get the 60'ish amps?" On the Niehoff's the base alternator is made 28v then with SCRs power is taken to feed the 14v side. so technically with 14v load the 28v output is lower than if there was no load on 14v. but this also means that with...

http://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG0018A_uid12172009221392.pdf here is the troubleshooting guide for the model alternator you have. on page two of the guide (TG0018A) is a simplified wiring diagram.

on the voltage regulator there are two LEDs one for 14v and one for 28V what are they doing when the voltage drops? according to your post at alt 14v and 28v, but at dash 13 and 27v this is a one volt drop not ideal max you would like is 1/2 volt drop at most, clean the grounds and B+ wires...

the advantage is to for a general reason of adding more capacity to the system that's the short answer. the long answer is Reserve Capacity and Cranking Amps, when you run batteries in series the voltage adds but the amps stay the same, when you add batteries is parallel the voltage stays the...

if you want to find more info look at the name plates on the Alternator and Regulator. look for the 7676-N**** number, the N**** is the part number if it is a Niehoff they have some trouble shooting guides and such on their website. now to the voltage you are seeing is there any load on the 14V...

"generator" is just the Army way of naming it. that's an alternator it just not one of the dual voltage ones. most of the dual voltage models are made by C.E.Niehoff this is a Leece-Neville and its a single voltage model.