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Suprman on a N3030 the rear terminal is not AC!!!!! its is F- (Field Sense) below is a link for the Trouble shooting guide for the Early 100 Amp(N1506) that used the N3030 the Later N1509/N1511 and N3207 switched that terminal over to AC later on so yes you are correct to leave it disconnected...

....and what did that have to do with the above thread/conversation?...... you asked in another thread about that epoxy it is there for the requirements that these original alternators (C.E.Niehoff at least ) where made for. .....these are military designed alternators meaning they had to pass...

C.E.Niehoff uses "AC or P or R" as AC output from regulator and "D+" as the charge light output generally and "IGN or E" for Ignition excite signal. for remote sense they use custom harness to plug on regulator

you are correct the whole Drive end housing would need to be replaced C.E.Niehoff Doesn't let anyone dig out the potting to replace parts. that said the N1509/N1511 which are the Newer versions of your model switched from Studs to threaded holes for the 24v/14v outputs. FYI for the phase wires...

have you tested the IGN wire going to the Regulator? also Niehoff has trouble shooting guides for their alternators on their website under service and support. look up you model alternator (NXXX) and see if you find a fault with your unit, it should give you a better idea of what is going on...

yes positive tap of the lower battery for the 12v loads transit buses do the same thing.

N1225/N1387 Alternator Installation Instructions II225A the C.E.Niehoff instruction from their site about the N1225 state that for Dual voltage setups you run the wire to the 14v stud to the lower battery of the 24v batteries, when doing a single voltage setup you put a ground wire to the 14v...

also test the batteries individually to make sure that they are all equal and in good working order.

C.E.Niehoff has the installation instructions for the unit on their website http://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/II0059A_uid121020091153181.pdf as to "Have to" no just run the interconnect cables and run the one cable back to battery B+ and Ground, as a side note yes make sure the...

another option for holding the belt if you have old belts around is to wrap them around pulley and lock them tight with vise grips or make a strap wrench out of them and hold pulley that way. also don't spray oil into bearing areas they are sealed and there are other parts that keep dust and...

if you got a Niehoff they have trouble shooting guides for their alternators on their website under service and support, Niehoff part numbers start with N****,

if you plan on swapping to a dual voltage alternator, the load of the 12v should be taken from the battery not directly from the alternator 12v stud. the regulator was made to see a battery there it wont just output 12v from that stud if its not hooked up to a battery. as to your add-on issues...

for the Tach signal from the alternator what is coming out of the alternator is 1/2 system voltage AC, basically its unrectified voltage. now if you have a DVOM you can put it to Hrz setting and look at the RPM of the alt itself(it may show like 100.3 this is 1,003 RPM). for engine RPM you have...

the N9614 number is a Niehoff part number here is the nut and washer for the pulley Niehoff doesn't have a listing for the pulley # as it was supplied separately. N9416 1 Locknut (3/4-16 UNJF-3B) N9393 1 Flat Washer (.77" ID x 1.31" OD x .09" T)

the 200 amp weights about 70lbs for the dual voltage both the 200 and 400 only output max 50 amps on the 12v side. (if you pull all 50amps of 12v you only get 140 on 24v side) its a shared load system total output limited to combined loads. I think that there are a couple surplus sellers that...

If the alternator you have is a Niehoff they have trouble shooting guides on their website "http://www.ceniehoff.com" under the service and support tab.

on the alternators manufactures website are troubleshooting guides for the alternator/Regulator, also the installation instructions. the website is "http://www.ceniehoff.com" the documents are under the Service and Support link at the top. N1225/N1387 Alternator Installation Instructions...

yes they can, on the regulator name plate will be the model number. if you haven't already go the Niehoff website under service and support trouble shooting guides look up your particular alternator and go thought the guide to make sure the alternator isn't also bad.

if its a Niehoff then its brushless and the only "wear" part is the bearings. generally when the Alternator goes bad it just fails/ smokes. the regulators are solid state electronics and they may give you an intermittent but they too like to just die fast. something to check would be the trouble...

there are several Niehoff commercial units that are comparable in size to their military ones might be an option to look at for conversions. little bit pricey but maybe a thought.