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what input shaft seal are you referencing? usually the oil leak from the front is bad bearing, loose retainer, no gasket, drain hole blocked, etc. even though a seal seems like a good idea i have never had one leak in 25 years unless there was a problem.

well that syncro is clearly very bad. i would be concerned about the mating gear. the bearing i use for that location is a M1207EL.

UD is Nissan, just have to look around scrap yards and see what is available that has air over hyd brakes

I mounted the air brake pedal assy from a 900 series on the firewall with reinforcement. I used the dryer and air/hyd setup from a UD box truck. Same for the clutch. Look up the plumbing for any truck that uses this system, UD, GMC-65, etc.

It is not that hard to add air assist clutch and full air over hyd brakes. I can push my clutch in with one finger and lock brakes with the other. Pictures on my web site.

install a 3053 with my OD kit and run easy 65 MPH

i have one with 200 hrs that i am stripping for parts, mostly wonder if the wiring is the same for all of them, i assume it may be.

did you know there IS an hour meter? hidden inside under the back of the convenience outlet. i also wonder if all the wiring harness are the same for this series of generators. do you have a parts book?

OK, That's a great start, now I need to cross that to something in the civ world and find it in 12 volt! Any ideas? None of those numbers mean anything to me.

no that is not even close!! i am pretty sure it takes something close to a 9 tooth pinion. the yanmar engine does not have a yanmar flywheel housing or flywheel or starter. it has am adapter for the generator that is not yanmar. the engines were supplied with only crank end open. so need to...

These are 15kw sets and all have Yanmar 4TNV84T engine and are made by Cummins Power Generation. anyone have one? i need the numbers from the starter since i have one with no starter and there appears to be almost no information available. thanks, tom

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exactly. if you ran a good hone for that long you are WAY oversize and at the least can expect piston noise and worst it will soon break the piston. what is the line in the other wall that looks like a crack? i suppose it is just a 'mark' /

by tempered, you mean hardened? hit it with a file, if it cuts it is not hard plus if you can drill it with an ordinary drill it is not hard. when you weld it just let it cool down on it's own.

also known as a 1308SL. i sell bearings and bearing sets for that trans if you want contact me.

i am still not sure why anyone would want to do this? the original does not leak, it does not even seep, there will be no oil on the floor, ever, if it is all put together as design intended. if you anticipate driving in deep water a fording kit is still a better option as it will keep both the...

you need to download 'Amphenol /Matrix MS/Standard MIL-DTL-5015 Cylindrical Connectors' from there you can use the info from your connector to find the mate. be prepared for it to be VERY expensive.

i don't have any spare parts but i have several working units if you need to check values on something

Garrett, glad to see you are enjoying the upgrade! Since my engine is rated 3000 rpm continuous duty I guess i should try for a record? Maybe I will just do the math, 80.82 mph with 14.5R20.

if you put new rings in it that is not your problem. if you left the pistons in i am pretty sure you just don't have any compression. put a very liberal amount of penetrating oil (a pint) in each cylinder with the pistons half way up and let it sit for at least a week. pull injectors and crank...