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V-2-34 heads now in captivity. need rest of engine.

yeah i want one of those tanks too. the prices have gone crazy in the last 20 years. in europe they are almost free. T-72 for $5000. i plan to get a low display case with glass top and sides and clean them up and store them in it. that way it can be a table as well. now to find a block. these...

visiting my local scrap yard i saw on the ground a pair of heads from a Russian model V-2 engine most famously used in the T-34. now what are the chances they would be here in Maryland? they look like they were just reworked MANY years ago perhaps. does anyone have some idea if they have any...

hose is never clamped from the outside, it always has an internal pipe

it is very low pressure, i doubt you even need clamps with the correct size hose

take the nut off, use puller. it is just a straight spline but is a tight fit and probably rusted.

true, many ugly things could be wrong once it is apart. on the bright side the counter shaft will also come out in the truck. it sounds like the OP needs more money in any event.

then he might as well just take his apart and see how much is damaged

before you buy a used one, look at it. take the top off. you want no rust, no missing teeth and no serious chipping on 1st / rev slider etc. bearings should be smooth. it is still a small gamble. probably was abused before you got it.

the key to all this is it has to be extremely reliable. i used 2 air pacs and gutted them, plugged some holes and made them strictly air cylinder and master cylinder. i don't know if the system from a trailer would be safe enough to use on the primary vehicle, if it fails on a trailer the truck...

i think it mounts remotely and then you mount a air brake treadle valve on the pedal. i did that many years ago and space was really limited. current truck i put a 900 series valve on the firewall with a reinforcement plate, fairly easy, then used 2 air pacs. i could make kits but price would...

so this looks useful, but these units only monitor one phase (or leg if you prefer) so you need 2 and then you must add the results. seems there would be a similar unit that looks at both legs and in the process also at the sum of those legs for the total of those loads as well?

not an 'o' ring, it is a seal. remove the 2 front motor bolts and the LR mount bolt and push the front of the engine to the right, it will come out.

i don't know how you get 3.5mm hose on, i use 4mm and it is a very tight fit. the units i replace it on already had 4mm hose from new, obviously never replaced. also the tees are the same size as drip irrigation hose parts which are 4mm so replacements are as close as walmart.

it has straight sides when new and is like a pop rivet, screwing in the fitting and tightening it shortens the length which 'crimps' it in the hole.

the threads don't use sealer, the washer provides the seal. looks like you need a new washer, that rusty one will probably leak.

no need to remove tank, just pull nut out or cut it off and leave it in tank.

that is what i am thinking, i ran 70 for 5 hrs a few mths ago. high idle on my 9.0 is 3000 rpm and it is rated that for continuous use, have never run it up that fast yet.

stock 5th is .78 but yes no point really without my kit.

3053 WILL bolt right onto the 3116 in the A3. you need the obvious, a good used 3053 trans, flywheel around $200 new and clutch around $200 new plus some small bits from a donor A2 for clutch linkage. all in all a simple swap to do. I have 2 trans in stock, one is completely new with OD...