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fuel system is self bleeding, just leave the pump on for a minute and verify fuel return to the tank.

you just screw the fitting into it and tighten it.

i would not trust that, the new part is just a few dollars. the old one probably is unreliable, they seal by having a threaded object screwed into them which causes them to pinch the tank walls. should be a 3/4" hole in tank.

no need to remove tank, it is a well nut, search for A3816, just a few $ 802 and 803 are very easy to work on once you are familiar with them

pumps must be set so that they keep the rack from moving to far towards the radiator. also they must all be set in the same rotational position. if that makes sense to you great, otherwise it is hard to explain. that is why there is a special tool that locates the rack and requires taking the...

why do you want to remove it?

the correct solenoid will have the correct plug. several people are parting these out, just keep looking.

do you still have the 3 wire connector on the wire harness? the engine will default to run position, so to stop it just hold the top of the lever towards fan.

802 and 803 are the same

sure it will run fine without it but it cannot shut itself off. solenoid pulls the top of the 'lever' away from the fan for run and pushes it toward the fan for shut off fuel. you can just do this by hand to run it. look on evilbay, there are usually some there.

did the solenoid move back towards the radiator? they can stick, push it by hand and it has to stop as this shuts off the fuel. it is very hard on the pumps to run out of fuel.

right, 34-1 is the 3053 and 34 without the -1 is 3052. 52 is direct drive in 5th, 53 is OD in 5th

since it is a different design transmission, it would not be exactly the same. only the basic stuff. why not just use the manual written just for the 3053.

not the same trans at all. ES60 and CM59 are MUCH larger than 3053. the 3053 is not a CM series trans, CM stands for constant mesh as in 1st and also reverse. the 3053 is much older, the last year the 3*53 was made for civilian use was 1965. the military version has wider gears (approx 1/8")...

well, i sell all the trans parts, syncros are $150 plus shipping. pm me for any other parts

grinding in any syncro gear is not normal and means something is wrong. i had NEW trans. i built it with ALL NEW parts, yes it was expensive. point is the NEW 4/5 syncro was bad. would not shift 4 or 5 without grinding unless you babied it. replaced with another new syncro and perfect. normally...

play in the front of the shaft is normal since there is nothing to support it. it would not have gone in if the pilot brng was not near perfect. not going into 2nd sitting still is normal. other problem are strange and i am sure you will find something worn out when you pull it apart.

have you read 9-6115-641-24? it tells you how to do it, much to long to explain here. if it was put together that way, i would worry about it being a bad gen head and check it carefully while it is apart.

no, someone probably just put it back with no bolts in the drive plate.

thermostat is built in mine