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i seriously doubt it makes a bit of difference as long as the fan pulls air through the rad

small parts kit, i doubt it, but i have everything separately. there never was a needle style for 2nd or 5th, that is something i incorporated in my OD kit and is custom sized parts. the only gear bushing is for 5th, all others run right on the shaft.

gerhard, that is a good job on the chart, wonder if anyone does anything with the 3052 anymore. it did briefly confuse the op of this thread, but we got it worked out. thanks, you make great drawings and charts.

i keep all that odd stuff also, thrust $9, idler brngs $12, shaft $52, gear $80. also always have bearing sets all 5 brngs, seal, gaskets, bunch of assorted gears.

you can also feed 30psi clean fuel right to the rear of the HH

G. that chart is handy, but it is for the 3052 so some gears will be wrong part number for most people

i can make some brackets for the A2 and a sanden if enough people wanted one. it would probably be in the $80 dollar range. i am getting ready to pull all that stuff off my LDT since i finished the 9.0 install and i am selling the engine and such. send me a pm if you really want the brackets...

best guess then is it was not a new trans, but a rebuilt one with worn parts. or defective new parts, anyway only taking it apart and experienced eyes will know for sure.

now this becomes important, at speed in 5th when you coast does the shifter also try to move to the rear? (but is not likely to come out) 5th gear position is towards the front, right? with 4th to the rear?

is it possible the front of shaft is no longer in the pilot bearing? it could be out of alignment if the trans is not directly behind the engine as in a defective bell housing or flywheel housing. how do you mean 'clutch disengaged'? disengaged is when you push pedal down and then it should be...

ok, do this. watch the shifter while in 5th at road speed. when you get on power, the shifter should move forward and off power it should move to the rear. the only other thing i can think of that would reverse this would be some misalignment between the trans and engine.

how do you push that on the barb fittings on a mep-802/3? as for the 4mm versus 3.5mm the 3.5 may be correct, but look at the end of a failed hose and it looks like it was no something to large. the 4mm is only .020" larger id but is still a tight fit so i think it may be a better choice anyway.

don't know where you got that info, but i think it is wrong. the original hose is DIN73379 type B 4.0 x 9.0 mm very hard to find in US, i buy mine in England 50 ft at a time.

not 17 watts per leg, 17.5 amps

first, and this is almost certainly not the case, but does your engine turn counter clockwise looking at the flywheel? the spicer 3*** is a direction specific transmission. second are you positive the pilot bearing is correct with no side play on shaft? if those answers are yes you could have a...

rpm = (168 * mph * ratio ) / radius Where: "rpm" is engine speed in rpm "mph" is road speed in mph "ratio" is product of all ratios, in your case ratio = 0.79 * 1.0 * 6.72 = 5.309 "radius" is the distance from the ground to the center of the axle shaft. Or if you want to solve for mph...

low fuel switch has nothing to do with the fuel gauge but probably healed itself. shaking?? they run pretty smooth, have you checked the exhaust temp of each cylinder?

just an educated guess would be 600 min

so why do you not have a schematic? they are free. http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Military-Generators/MEP-004A/

Running and driving now, just put 25 miles on it with no issues. Due to engine height, hood was raised 4" and sometime soon the cab and fenders will follow. Left to do, radiator pressure tank, tachometer cable, need 25 inches, mount A/C compressor.