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cannot be the solenoid since it has to pull in to turn on starter motor. cannot be starter motor if it runs. all that is left is the over running clutch in the drive gear.

that is a very short tow so this won't matter, but you want the trans in any gear so it won't turn and the transfer in neutral. this will prevent trans damage from lack of oiling.

almost done, just several small items and radiator mounting and exhaust both of which should be very easy. got the throttle (pedal and cable) finished today. wiring run to engine, just have to harness it up again. had to re route air brake lines to give engine more room. need to make A/C comp...

the 4 coming from the reinforcement plate are brakes, the 2 closer to center of truck are for air lockers.

UPDATE - engine is mounted and about half hooked up, just some simple things to do now, fuel lines routed but need fittings, need to get gas pedal assy from donor truck it will just be the easiest and best way. need to flip radiator mounting side channels to the rear and fab a mounting brace...

the yokes will be different, the 54 control valve works by moving in and out so you need the correct joint to allow that, plus res, pump, pittman arm and drag link. etc

right, the HF64 is way bigger than the 54. it is huge and will not fit

i would also like to see pics. i considered that box and it is much bigger than the 710 box i use. as far as moving it forward there is just no more room to do that.

you know all the parts for power steering are already available?

i got a reset mep-903. no bolts in the gen head drive plate, excessive use of black sealant on timing cover resulting in missformed 'o' rings for oil passages. it just worries me when the mil rebuilds anything, they just don't care to do a good job.

Misleading information!! Replacing the 'O' rings on the HH is not a 5 minute job. There are 2 more very common leak points and the HH rings probably would never leak 9 gallons of fuel. Almost certainly the booster pump oil seal.

i may relocate the filters and go to an electric air pump as head room is at a premium

just the stock drum brakes with dual full air over hyd control. top speed will still only be 70 mph

progress is slow in winter but manifolds are almost done. now to plumb it up and install it in truck as soon as it starts to get warmer.

for a comparable unit, $9570 and no, if you cannot inspect it first, don't buy it.

$3600 in good condition is a steal.

you won't want to remove the tank when you find out how long it takes!! start by removing the radiator and then everything else. i see you have the rare artic heater, a $4000 option!

the heater is a real selling point, it will go from 30° to 180° in 15 minutes. sold a unit to someone in alaska as he wanted a unit that would start at -60°

yes i agree with this, but with this observation. the mil generators must be rated at the 120/240 configuration to begin with, and very under rated at that. i have to wonder about the 10 wire units like mep-805 and 806 that have 10, 11, 12 wire tied together internally. i will have to load test...

yes i realize that, but it is because the unit is grossly under rated to start with