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I was interested in changing out my old turn signal switch for a self canceling switch but in my case due to the shortened steering column. Since I bought a self canceling switch I mounted it to my stock length steering column to see if it would work with the Key ignition/steering column lock...

Just to be safe and hope no one makes one, it's a joke LOL

Today was a little slow so I built this handy battery carrier. I'm going to test it this weekend.

I removed my test rivet I did the other day because I needed the hinge to work with. Also it gave me a chance to see just how well the rivet worked. I tried to pound the rivet mandrel through with a hammer and punch and it would not move. I cut the top off and I was then able to remove it...

Since you say that, look at the AC wiring diagram hi/low switch and there is a 24v feed from the control box. However that's only for the blower motor circuit.

You might be able to by probing around in the battery box looking for a lose connection. Use a wood dowel or stick to probe around so you don't short anything out.

Here's the AC wiring, at the bottom it shows the battery box and has nothing else in common with the rest of the electrical system. That is what leads me to believe it is in the battery box.

From just the little research I've done since reading your post and no experience with your model at all, I think the AC connects in the battery box. Also if the alternator stops functioning it may be losing it's field voltage (not an expert on HMMWV alternators). It could be something in the...

There are different kinds i think, make sure the one you get looks like what you have on yours.

Yes you can replace just the brake side using the single switch. Look at pictures of both and you'll see they are just bolted together.

I did find a tach installation diagram and it looks like it taps the power off the positive feed to the fuel gauge. It also grounds to the gauge panel. When it goes off do you lose your fuel gauge? I'll guess that you do and assume it is similar to the earlier wiring diagrams and gets that...

Ground your meter to the battery ground and if you don't lose 24v to the tach power swap to check the ground. Put the positive meter lead on the battery +24 and put the neg meter lead on the ground at the tach. If you lose power that way, you have a ground issue.

I wasn't sure what truck you have ... yes I think you are correct. If I could find a wiring diagram for your truck it would be helpful. I will make a guess though, it may have the same type of signal generator and the chances are you are losing power to the tach and not the signal. If I were...

Based on your description, I'm going to focus on the tach. I'm not sure about your truck specifically but here is the basic operation of the tach. There is a sensor on the back of the motor with 2 wires. The sensor creates a pulse signal and it goes to the tach. The only thing the tach needs...

Now that I can see in on a monitor and not my phone that is oxidation. If you want to send it to me I'll give it my best shot to clean it up and look for any obvious issues. I won't be able to test it but I can't make it work less than it is now LOL. PM me if you want.

Hard to tell from the pictures but that looks like aluminum oxide, AKA white death, which is aluminum rust Indicating moisture may have gotten into the Box. Might be repairable but it depends on how much moisture and oxidation got to the Circuit board in the TCU.

I came across that in the TM's. Looks like they might have changed them or retrofitted them. I think they also have spacers inside the tailgate for the top 3 holes on each side for the bolts.

Pop Rivets. Our trucks have thousands of Pop Rivets. I never knew how many different types of Pop Rivets there are until I started working on my truck. I bought a bag of rivets thinking they would cover most of the rivets on my truck. Not even close. Since that first bag of rivets I have...

The steel hub was left with a rough surface and pressed into the aluminum adapter. About .001-.0015 press fit. I was going to put two 1/4x20 socket head screws in each side but after pressing in the hub, it was not needed. The new steering wheel is flatter so I mounted it flush with the...

Here's the back of the adapter after it was painted and mounted to the steering wheel. The back is relieved for the steering column. Here it is in place. Here's the finished product. Horn mounted in place, connected and works! The "D" shaped wheel definitely improves entry and exit...