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Good catch, I was rushing to make a meeting and posted after a quick google search and missed the LED part. My mistake. I do see a specific listing difference in 28 vs 24 volt bulbs and a 10% margin so about 2.5-3v+-. Using a 24v in a 28v environment would likely reduce the life of the bulb...

Just an FYI, I'm not suggesting anyone here is wrong, right etc. The same can be said for the bulbs in question. All the listed bulbs and numbers are listed for both 24v AC/DC and 28v AC/DC

That is typical of charging systems. All my 12v cars run at 13.8-14.3 but I still buy 12v bulbs. I'd bet the difference in the 24v vs 28v bulbs is marketing. It's a 24v system that charges at roughly 28v. I'm sure either bulb would be fine.

Local auto parts store and ask for 1864 or 1820 bulb. The 1820 isn't as bright.

Hmm, my dash bulbs aren't backward polarity, Tip is Positive and the case is ground.

Any auto parts store should have them. Something like GE-1820 should work.

The original bulb is the same as the dash bulbs and does not have a polarity like a LED bulb. You can pull one out of your dash to test it.

Thanks!

Still waiting on rivets for the tailgate hinges but managed to paint the tailgate.

Once I get the directional mount bracket figured out and maybe a switch upgrade I might offer this service and see if anyone is interested in the conversion. I still have a stock steering column and parts on the way to work on that conversion. Do you think this is something people would like...

Today I mounted the ignition switch after painting it to match. I also wired it up and it works perfectly. I did take the ignition switch apart to example the construction of the contacts and assembly in general. At some point I will probably make a more heavy duty switch but for now i think...

In my quest to have a stock like locking steering column with ignition switch I decided to inspect the chinese key switch that some previous owner had installed. Also I like to cut stuff open whether I need to or not. The contacts are well made and solid copper but unfortunately the wiper...

I don't think you have a safety issue, you have a force fit issue. Good rule of thumb is "If it doesn't fit, Force it. If it breaks, it needed to be replaced anyway".

Your edit is correct. Skips 1 spline on both.

yes, standard steering wheel puller. That is what the 2 threads bolt holes on each side of the steering wheel nut is for. More concerning is it sound like you rotated the steering wheel on the shaft and Forced it back on where it doesn't belong. The spline on the shaft for the steering wheel...

Probably spliced in because it already had a TPS and other sensors wired. Not sure what your goal is but if it is to relocate it then I would consider getting a new US Shift harness and just using it. It would simplify everything and you could mount it where ever you want. Also all the wires...

The splines on the steering wheel are keyed but the splines on the steering shaft on the other end of the steering column are not. It is easy enough to remove the column and rotate the wheel to your desire and then put the column spline back on where you want it.

Depends, did your truck have a factory 4L80 or are you doing a conversion? If it is a conversion then the factory harness doesn't have any of the wires. The factory harness for a 4L80 has a bunch of extra wires that you don't need. The US Shift harness comes with everything you need except...

A water proof box is easy. You could use the original box and simply remove the connector and run all to the wires through the hole and then just fill the hole with silicone. You could also wire the controller to the internal connector and use the factory harness. Do you have a factory...