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They aren't that hard to find ... ESP usually has a few listed. here's an example https://www.easternsurplus.net/PartDetails/5097/HM-697-HMMWV-6-Point-5-Liter-General-Motors-Diesel-Engine
https://www.easternsurplus.net/PartDetails/7695/HM-1243-HMMWV-6-Point-5-Liter-General-Motors-Diesel-Engine...
The easiest and probably the cheapest repair is a drop in take out engine. Upgrades, swaps and turbos will take much more time and money. Keep posting picture of the progress and good luck!
I guess but I don't think an oil spring would do that much damage to the surface. I'm not sure what they look like in one of these motors but that does look like threads. I was only guessing based on past experience with similar type of catastrophe.
I think I used this one https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-5204-Solutions-Pedestal/dp/B0002M701S and it looks the same as the one juanprado mentioned above.
I had to cut the back off it so it only covers the side and front of the gauge.
That tach will work, it is what I have on mine. It is not the exact same as the one pictured. The mount in the one pictured is harder to find and costs a lot if you do. You can buy that kit on epay for over $500. I used the same tach you linked and bought an aftermarket mount that doesn't...
On the driver side valve cover, is there a sticker identifying what engine you have? The 6.5 came as a GM and later GEP. The GEP being the better of them. Good luck and keep us informed.
First, I'm not sure what the HUGE space is in your initial post but I'd edit it and get rid of it.
Second, basic testing would be in order to determine exactly what the problem is before tearing it all apart.
Last, if it is "early GM" such as 6.2 and a 3 speed transmission or if it is 6.5/3sp...
The Brush end cap had a unique problem. The power wires were crimped to the brush holders, #1 in the picture. There was no way I could save crimp and reuse it. I didn't want to splice the wires in the end cap and soldering isn't acceptable in a high current draw like this. So I started...
The motor has a holding brake that was corroded and rusty as well as frozen. I took it all apart to see if I could clean it up and get it working. You can see the condition in the pictures on the right side. I had to drill out small allen screws holding it together, those are the heads in the...
I started reassembling the turret drive. Filled the gearbox with grease which is what i think is what I took out however what I took out seemed to have broken down. The gasket for the top of the gearbox was damaged when I removed it and I had to make one. I guess making your own gaskets is a...
I thought that too but honestly I can see the speedo much better and the light didn't bother me at all. Not as bright as the picture makes it seem.
Just a Patriotic Red, White and Blue color scheme and to be a little different.
After the 4L80 upgrade I still needed to upgrade the speedometer. I had one with a couple small dents in the bezel and was fixing it and the plan was to paint if green to match the rest of the gauges however I came across one in like new condition. I finished mounting and wiring it and was...
The doors in the picture are not armored up door from what I can see. Those look like standard doors.
If you look around and aren't in a hurry, you can find better deals and pricing. Here is another guy on FB with a pair of front doors for $1700
I took apart the turret controller (BPMTU) and started rewiring it. Removed some of the bulky mounts and connectors I won't be using. I will be remounting the power and joystick connectors on top. It sits beside the driver seat and conveniently if I reach over and back my hand goes right to...
So I took the 2 motor bodies to my shop and measured them. The parts body was about 1/8" longer and slightly smaller diameter. I'm guessing the dimensions for that motor are metric. I chucked up the body in a lathe and cut to the same length. Then turned the ends for the o-rings and end...
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